Extra home workshop time
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Re: Extra home workshop time
It's a weekend again so I've been having fun there again and done a bit of assembly on the Peter Paice bike
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relax, nothing is under control
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Re: Extra home workshop time
When I got to fitting the rear tyre I did my usual modifcation to the beads.
Some tubeless tyres don't like staying up on the bead seat of some tube-type rims at low pressure.
The combination of Michelin X11 tubeless and TY250B rim is one of those combinations. In the photos I've tried to show how I've taken off the wedge-shaped part of the tyre beads.
The photo shows a new untouched X11 and a new X11 that I've reshaped the beads on.
Some tubeless tyres don't like staying up on the bead seat of some tube-type rims at low pressure.
The combination of Michelin X11 tubeless and TY250B rim is one of those combinations. In the photos I've tried to show how I've taken off the wedge-shaped part of the tyre beads.
The photo shows a new untouched X11 and a new X11 that I've reshaped the beads on.
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relax, nothing is under control
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Re: Extra home workshop time
David Lahey wrote:OK here's a Dr Karl question for everyone about the fuel tank.
I filled it to the top yesterday with a mixture of diluted molasses and phosphoric acid and made sure I got all the bubbles out. That's when I took the photos. This afternoon I checked on it and the level had gone down - see today's photo. None had leaked out. It took 35 ml to fill it to the top again. Why?????
I got the RL tank back from the tanker repair guys today. This weekend I'll start cleaning up the inside.
I did some online stuff and found a few chemicals that so the job but they are fairly harsh and work quickly.
I'm going to try white vinegar and a hand full of nuts and bolts. I'll update later.
Re: Extra home workshop time
Hi David,
I read about your witches brew of molasses and rust remover with much interest as I thought I might need it for a very second hand 1961 Royal Enfield steel petrol tank. The last patch of rust on the outside of my tank revealed a small pin hole which I was able to solder up with a large soldering iron but my confidence was undermined. After considering your method and POR15 (imported from USA) I found the locally manufactured KBC. The kit for a 20L tank included a cleaner, rust stabiliser and the liquid liner. Better still it was available from a local paint supplies shop for $63.
The application seems to have gone well I am just waiting 96 hours for it to cure. There was enough of the liquid liner left over for me to paint the outside of the bottom of the tank. According to KBC the liquid liner can be used with fibreglass to patch externally if needed. KBC also indicate that the 1 litre of rust stabiliser may be saved for reuse.
Regards
Peter Sampson
I read about your witches brew of molasses and rust remover with much interest as I thought I might need it for a very second hand 1961 Royal Enfield steel petrol tank. The last patch of rust on the outside of my tank revealed a small pin hole which I was able to solder up with a large soldering iron but my confidence was undermined. After considering your method and POR15 (imported from USA) I found the locally manufactured KBC. The kit for a 20L tank included a cleaner, rust stabiliser and the liquid liner. Better still it was available from a local paint supplies shop for $63.
The application seems to have gone well I am just waiting 96 hours for it to cure. There was enough of the liquid liner left over for me to paint the outside of the bottom of the tank. According to KBC the liquid liner can be used with fibreglass to patch externally if needed. KBC also indicate that the 1 litre of rust stabiliser may be saved for reuse.
Regards
Peter Sampson
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Re: Extra home workshop time
Fraser wrote:Hi David,
I read about your witches brew of molasses and rust remover with much interest as I thought I might need it for a very second hand 1961 Royal Enfield steel petrol tank. The last patch of rust on the outside of my tank revealed a small pin hole which I was able to solder up with a large soldering iron but my confidence was undermined. After considering your method and POR15 (imported from USA) I found the locally manufactured KBC. The kit for a 20L tank included a cleaner, rust stabiliser and the liquid liner. Better still it was available from a local paint supplies shop for $63.
The application seems to have gone well I am just waiting 96 hours for it to cure. There was enough of the liquid liner left over for me to paint the outside of the bottom of the tank. According to KBC the liquid liner can be used with fibreglass to patch externally if needed. KBC also indicate that the 1 litre of rust stabiliser may be saved for reuse.
Regards
Peter Sampson
Hi Peter.
Sounds like you've been having fun too. That kit for $63 sounds like good value. I'd say its about the same cost per tank as buying the components individually and is probably less running around.
Did you just fill the tank with the rust stabiliser or did you submerge the tank in a tub of rust stabiliser?
I've done a TY250 steel tank that had corroded so thin that I was worried that it might spring a leak during the rust treatment, so submerged the tank instead. With a KT tank of JC1's, it was holey to start with so it got the submerge treatment.
Regards
David
relax, nothing is under control
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- Bike: Many Twinshocks
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Re: Extra home workshop time
And now for something completely different - a different bed-time story regarding motorbike fuel tanks.
I've been working on a TY250D tank for a friend and it was suffering from having premix fuel left stored in it for a very long time. The whole inside of the tank was coated with a pale coloured gummy substance which I'm guessing is a component of the fuel which has stayed behind after the rest had evaporated. It was similar stuff to what also gums up carburetors and fuel taps.
I tried the usual solvents and they did nothing. I found that non-caustic paint stripper softened the gum that was in the fuel tap, but the paint stripper was too viscous to be able to coat the insides of the tank with and clean out afterwards. Maybe liquid methlyene chloride would have done the trick but I didn't have any of it or any safe way of doing the job that way.
After procrastinating for a while I decided to try hot water, putting a 20 litre bucket on the bathroom floor and running hot water from the bath tap into the bucket with the tank submerged in it. I also added some dishwashing liquid for good measure. Now Wendy was not very happy with this going on in our bathroom so each time I replaced the water again with hot water, I would then take the whole thing out onto the veranda.
Each time I refilled it, I tested the gum where I could reach it with a finger, it seemed to be softening up so I persisted for about 2 weeks then dried out the tank internals. After drying out, the gum became a powder. So then I put small stones inside and agitated it to knock the powder off.
I've been working on a TY250D tank for a friend and it was suffering from having premix fuel left stored in it for a very long time. The whole inside of the tank was coated with a pale coloured gummy substance which I'm guessing is a component of the fuel which has stayed behind after the rest had evaporated. It was similar stuff to what also gums up carburetors and fuel taps.
I tried the usual solvents and they did nothing. I found that non-caustic paint stripper softened the gum that was in the fuel tap, but the paint stripper was too viscous to be able to coat the insides of the tank with and clean out afterwards. Maybe liquid methlyene chloride would have done the trick but I didn't have any of it or any safe way of doing the job that way.
After procrastinating for a while I decided to try hot water, putting a 20 litre bucket on the bathroom floor and running hot water from the bath tap into the bucket with the tank submerged in it. I also added some dishwashing liquid for good measure. Now Wendy was not very happy with this going on in our bathroom so each time I replaced the water again with hot water, I would then take the whole thing out onto the veranda.
Each time I refilled it, I tested the gum where I could reach it with a finger, it seemed to be softening up so I persisted for about 2 weeks then dried out the tank internals. After drying out, the gum became a powder. So then I put small stones inside and agitated it to knock the powder off.
relax, nothing is under control
Re: Extra home workshop time
David
I just painted the rust blast onto the rusty parts of the outside of the tank and it seemed to have some effect. I subsequently coated it with the tank liner which has the consistency of a heavy paint. I have decided to leave it for a week before painting over it.
Peter
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