My Montesa 349 Project

[Kombivan]

Primary drive side photo's for those like me whom are not mechanics and need to know where the parts fit.

[billy]

Is there something special about that fuel tap? All the spanish fibreglass tanks I have use 12mm female thread in the tank and taps for these are readily available. One local supplier would be Bultaco Parts Australia http://www.bultacoaustralia.com
Another would be Don Newell in Brisbane

There is a difference. The outlet comes out the side pointing to the rear, not the bottom, in order to avoid the engine brace. Zoom in on the photo. Fuel line not fitted.

[David Lahey]

For what it is worth, here is what one of those taps looks like on a 348. The hose does run close to the brace. Not had a problem with it yet

[Kombivan]

I got the side casings on and thought I checked everything before I put it on and bugger I forgot to put a locking washer on the crankshaft nut on the counter weight side. Bugger so It will be coming off in a couple of days again I want to look at it for a while. I also put my back out a bit sitting on my tackle box whilst assembling the primary drive side only took a couple of days. The selector shaft seal is a real bugger to put in so being a lover of T3 Kombis I had a spare metal spark plug cap that I grinded the outer surface down on and slipped the seal over that then put that over the selector shaft then commenced tapping it in a little then removed the spark plug cap and used a deep 21mm socket to tap the seal home but it didn't go all the way so I got a flat punch that fitted between the casing and selector shaft and worked my way around it. This will save you stuffing numerous seals trying to get the bugger in.
See that tin of parts left over I have about 4 off them its a worry.











Yep them wires are gonna mess with my head.

[Kombivan]

Remember WD40 has a large % of fish oil in it for peservation.

[Kombivan]

Is there something special about that fuel tap? All the spanish fibreglass tanks I have use 12mm female thread in the tank and taps for these are readily available. One local supplier would be Bultaco Parts Australia http://www.bultacoaustralia.com
Another would be Don Newell in Brisbane

There is a difference. The outlet comes out the side pointing to the rear, not the bottom, in order to avoid the engine brace. Zoom in on the photo. Fuel line not fitted.

Billy what is the distance from the ring around the M to your gear lever inside edge. Does anyone know if the 349 cota were put together with copper seals or rubber seals on the crankcase bolts when new?

I not happy with the gear selector mechanism on mine in the primary drive case and I want to be sure its correct. Had to pull the magneto side off again as I forgot the locking washer. There is only one left handed locking washer on the bike and I found it in my tin of left over parts.

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[Kombivan]

Billy or maybe just measure the clearence between the casing and gear lever at the gear lever shaft on your 349 montesa cota which by the way looks nice. and is yours a 1979 or 1980? The year should be stamped on the rims.

[billy]

Billy or maybe just measure the clearence between the casing and gear lever at the gear lever shaft on your 349 montesa cota which by the way looks nice. and is yours a 1979 or 1980? The year should be stamped on the rims.

The clearance from the inside edge of the gear lever at the gear lever shaft to the casing is 9mm.
The distance from the gear lever to the casing adjacent to the ring around the M is 5.5mm.
I only inscription on the rim that resembles a date is "T-1-80". Is that a date? I wouldn't have thought to look at the rim for ID. I've never been able to find any information that distinguishes between a '79 or '80 based on the engine number.
Can't help you with the copper seals or rubber seals question.

[Kombivan]

T-1-80 tells us the rim was made january 1980 some models the wheels can vary a year or two but mine are spot on the correct dates so this suggest they only made the 349 to order and the 247 etc at this time as trials riding was in a bit of a recession at montesa at the time as everyone were buying Yamaha at the time Yamaha cleaned up in sales in australia as they were in the showrooms unlike the montesa that you had to order and wait for. Some where I don't know where I have a list of models listed by engine number think it used to be on the southwest montesa site I copied the list and its somewhere but I don't know where might be on the old computer that isn't working - will have to do somthing about that. Like New M/b ram/ power supply, give the graphics card and sound card the old biro rubber treatment mabye then it will go.

[Kombivan]

I got 10mm and 10mm clearence. Now one difference between the 1979 and 1980 is the gear change mechinism now I don't know if montesa work on the financial year or jan-jan. The picture below shows a 1979 Montesa the post that the gear return spring is held in position with doesn't exist on the 1980 model instead the post is part of the removable gear change thingy don't have a picture of the 1980 at present. That plate the cam is locked with has a piece come out and bend up where the metal round post is to secure the return spring. The later models have this as well and this is what i am currently concerned about with my bike see I have packed it out to clear a casing bolt head I don't know if it was like this before or if the wrong bolt has been used. It appears my gear lever is only 1mm different to yours but It appears it could go in 5mm then its still the same as yours at the ring on the casing have some serious thinking to do.



this picture from a 349-4 cota will show the difference in the shift plate of the 1980 model the 1979 is like the above pic see the difference. part number 5166.01302 (1980 and later models) is different. The 1979 model selector group is like the 247 cotas.

1980 selector group.


Do you notice the stamp mark in the shift plate this lines up with the selector shaft when its in Neutral, the stamp mark on the 1980 model is not as prominent as the 1979 model

1983 aprox selector group 349-4.... The cam 5166.107 has to be adjusted so the gear lever moves up and down equally so it must change gear properly both up and down like you only have to go in and out of gear to determine if its changing properly when you think you have it right tighten the locking nut making sure you hold it in place with a spanner whilst tightening the locking nut so the cam doesn't change position.