Broken Cota frame

Need help finding information or parts for that old machine in your shed? Someone in here will know!

Moderator: Moderators

FM350
Expert participant
Expert participant
Posts: 488
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:04 pm
Club: Otter Vale
Bike: Fantic

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by FM350 »

sherpa wrote:This is the reply from an email I sent to a mate, who is a metalurgist and has been since the 70's

Greg,
The general consensus among our welding experts is that they were probably TIG welded. It was possible that oxy was used as well.
The Chrome Moly referred to is made as tubes in AISI 4130 steel. This indicates that the steel has 0.30% carbon. Because of the thin wall section preheat is not necessary.
The steel tubes are supplied in the US to military specs for aircraft use and they are either normalised & tempered (Tensile strength about 655MPa and yield strength about 500MPa) or quenched & tempered (Tensile strength of 860-1240MPa and yield strength of 690-1140MPa).
Reynolds in UK still supply tubes for bikes (both motor and push). They quote tensile strengths of 700-900MPa (varied by the amount of cold work by drawing) and I think they also supply quenched and tempered tube. Again the material is 4130.

MIG would have caused too many lack of fusion problems back then before flux cored wire was available.
Send me a photograph of some welds.



Indeed....................personally I have never seen any Spanish frame that has been TIG or oxy fuel welded! I have been involved with trials since the late 60s, and have owned most of the Spanish bikes, so its likely I would have noticed any that had been TIG, rather than MIG welded by semi skilled workers.

4130 as such, is the designation applied to chrom-moly tube made in America and is still widely used there, the best known Reynolds tube was 531 which is manganese-moly, and was used to make some Norton featherbed production frames, which were joined using the bronze welding process. Imported 4130 tube is being used in the UK to make Rickman Mettisse frames, which are again built using bronze welding.

Tubes marketed by Reynolds today include an air hardening grade (631) which can be MIG welded, but this was certainly not available in the seventies. It seems surprising that people are happy to accept what's claimed in advertising blurb rather than taking note of how a frame is actually joined together. Another "high tensile" frame produced in the 70s, the Seeley Honda, had a sticker proclaiming "Reynolds 531", but only actually used about 75mm of this tube, which joined the rear mudguard loop, with the rest of the frame being ERW!

Back in the day, the cost of the Spanish factorys using costly imported cro-moly tubing, and the need for skilled workers to weld them together using the TIG (rather than MIG which could be carried out in a 1/4 of the time) process, would have meant production costs would have increased considerably, and I would guess it was a much better idea commercially to simply claim the cheap low carbon frames were cro-moly, as most people simply wouldnt know the difference anyway.

The very last bikes produced by Bultaco, the 6 speed white frame models, had many problems related to frames simply snapping in half under the tank, so there is a possibility that CRM tube may have been used on these, which when the basic design is poor, is far more likely to crack and fail than if cheap low carbon steel had been used.
Jon V8
Expert participant
Expert participant
Posts: 209
Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:44 pm
Club: Bath Classic
Bike: Ty250,Ht5.
Location: Near Bath,SW UK.

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by Jon V8 »

Well I'm glad Chris has put us straight on that one..... =D>
brt650
A grade participant
A grade participant
Posts: 162
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:28 pm
Club: DMCC
Bike: Bultaco 350 Sherpa T
Location: Newcastle NSW

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by brt650 »

Quote "personally I have never seen any Spanish frame that has been TIG or oxy fuel welded"
You should have come to my place when I fitted the alloy plate to the bottom of my 159. I oxy welded the plates I made to the frame tubes.It hasn't broken yet. That's probably because my flat slide carby makes the bike lighter. Had to throw that in.
Hope to see you all at Denman this week end.
Cheers
sherpa
A grade participant
A grade participant
Posts: 103
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:22 am
Club: pacific park
Bike: gasgas/sherpa

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by sherpa »

Dont forget, a new look brt650, a few stone lighter
brt650
A grade participant
A grade participant
Posts: 162
Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:28 pm
Club: DMCC
Bike: Bultaco 350 Sherpa T
Location: Newcastle NSW

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by brt650 »

Not yet sherpa. But hopefully not too far away. This tube is very annoying. Every time I bend forward I can feel it pulling. Do you think Andy will give me a handy cap advantage for this week end?
What was your welding procedure when you modified your frame? You have a friend that was a metal working teacher didn't you?
Be good.
Cheers
Brian
FM350
Expert participant
Expert participant
Posts: 488
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:04 pm
Club: Otter Vale
Bike: Fantic

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by FM350 »

Easy way to modify any low carbon frame, is to cut the top tube and MIG weld in a spacer, which will provide the correct steering angle. This is how most of the Spanish factory bikes would have been done, as the preferred angle differed between riders and this made it easy to set up perfectly for any rider.
keychange
B grade participant
B grade participant
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:38 pm
Bike: TLR/Cota247

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by keychange »

Got it back today - looks great. Thanks Cameron.

I was going to strip the powder coating which is looking tired and repaint using epoxy.

I know PC is harder but it means another weeks delay getting it down and back again.
keychange
B grade participant
B grade participant
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:38 pm
Bike: TLR/Cota247

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by keychange »

I have a conundrum and I am not sure how to attack it. In a nutshell the engine won't fit back into the frame. :( Just to remind you this is what happened
Image
The result was the engine hanging loose but still connected to all three mounts. The repair did not involve the engine mounts - the frame was brought back together using turnbuckles and the front down tube was re-welded back into what appeared to be the correct position ie: where the original weld broke.

Now the forward mount is 6 to 8 mm too close to the centre mount . Although it is a squeeze to get the engine fitted with centre and rear mounts aligned.

Given that the engine was aligned in the mounts when the frame broke I must deduce that pulling the frame back together has probably sharpened the angle of the base leading up to the forward mount. Although if anything the pressure was the opposite direction ie: the down tube is under stress wanting to move forward. I can't imagine how the base has otherwise deformed as I repeat the engine was securely mounted on all three points so I could understand the angle on the base at the rear being pulled down but this shouldn't have affected the relationship of the 3 mounts.

My inclination is to insert a hydraulic jack into the middle of the frame and try to push the forward mount away - but will I break the frame in doing so?
FM350
Expert participant
Expert participant
Posts: 488
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:04 pm
Club: Otter Vale
Bike: Fantic

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by FM350 »

If it had been repaired using MIG welding, with the motor bolted in, you would have had no problems at all. I would suggest you find out which of the mounts is out of line (this will be very clear to see) and by how much and then think about the best way of getting it sorted. The best way might be to remove the mounts which are out of line, and reweld them in the right place?
petenz
Junior participant
Junior participant
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:25 am
Bike: 77 montesa Cota 348
Location: NZ

Re: Broken Cota frame

Post by petenz »

FM350 wrote: The best way might be to remove the mounts which are out of line, and reweld them in the right place?


WHAT ?..
Don't cut the mounts off they are still in the right place...
The mounts have NOT moved... the frames is what has moved , twisted..
Pull the frame back into alinement & the mounts will follow...
Maybe easyer said than done...
Post Reply