My long time friend the pransing horse

[Tioli]

Very flat

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I'm going to have to have the same machining done to the new one.

Bring the lip of the inner ring down flush with the outer ring top line.
Then cut the sides in to clear the power valve governor crank shaft gear drive.

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I know a guy let's say Bob, who has a private machine shop and he is taking clients again. Bob can make anything I ask for eg, the head reshape "no problems let's take a volume test first, what compression do you want, what shape would you like...." I need the cases welded up like this "that's not so easy, I recon I will have to do this...."
Bob doesn't minded a chalange and he will do it while I wait, watch and ask all my stupid questions.

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This time I think I will leave the shims out.

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Bob got a special tool out that looked like a sextant and said that's 65 degrees.

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[Tioli]

Fits beautifully

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So much easier when you know what you want.

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While it's all apart, aluminium bash pleats are noisy things. So to take some of the reflected noise out I glued rubber pad strips between the frame and left over sound deadener up the middle.

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[CLO]

I'm subscribing so I get updates to this thread. This is a lot of great info!

It looks like you got your engine put back together. Did you install the crank you trued up? I was curious how you cleaned up the part of the crank where the seals make contact. The pictures from a while ago made that area look rough.

Also, how did you put the crank and cases together? Puller or did you wedge the crank and press it in?

[Tioli]

Hi CLO

Yes I used that crank. It was ok where the seals go but had what looked like hammer dents where the bearing sit on and against the crank. I took the high spots off with a fine file.

As I was using a less than perfect crank that should be ok. I was very carefull in removing the one in it.

I did not want to go into how to remove or put a crank in as I have only ever done about 10 and the last one would have been over 15 years ago. I can't say I'm the one to show that as it makes me nervice every time.

As the one in it looked in good but used condition I made a puller out of thick plate that sat against the end of the flywheel shaft and 5 long threaded bolts with aligned holes to the flywheel cover. The long threaded bolts had nuts on them and I just went round tightening them to pull the case off.

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Getting if off was easy but togeather took me two turns. First I replaced all the crank and gear bearings by spraying them lightly with WD40 putting them in a lunch bag and freezing them. Then heated around that particular seat and dropped them in one by one. No problems.

To put the crank in the right case, a little WD40 so it does not ice up and froze it for hours. Put a large washer on the inner main bearing race so when I heated it with a paint striper gun it did not blow directly through and on to the seal. Got it hot and dropped the crank in no problems.

I did have a 1mm fealer gauge sitting in there so it would not go in all the way. All the cranks I have done in the past you would drop in the right side as far as they go "clunk" and the gears on the right hold the crank tight agains the bearing. For some reason Kawasaki have not done this For the KDX? I measured the gap on each side between the case and crank before I pulled it apart. It was some thing like .7mm on the right side and 1.3mm on the left. I figured a 1mm each side would be ok,which is how it ended up I think (never checked)

To put the left case on I started doing what I have done in the past. Put the right side of the motor with crank and gears in the freezer and heated the left in the oven at 150c. In the past they just go togeather but it got stuck about 5mm from mating. The dowels lined up but I think my cleaning up the dents in the left shaft was not as good as it should have been and got stuck. I was not going to force it so pulled it off with my home made puller.

Figuring this would happen again I so welded two nuts togeather and screwed half the double nut on to the end of the flywheel crank then with a piece of steel tube a bolt, nut and some washers I could put it togeather the same but this time pull the last bit in by tightening a nut on the bolt against the washer and tube which push against the case. All went well motor runs smooth no vibes.

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[CLO]

To put the left case on I started doing what I have done in the past. Put the right side of the motor with crank and gears in the freezer and heated the left in the oven at 150c.

That is an interesting way to get the cases together. I am not sure I have ever heard of doing it that way because of the case sealant.

If you were using heat/cold for the installation, I would have targeted the heat/cold and kept the cases at room temperature.

[Tioli]

Yes it does not get that cold. Just put it in the freezer while I get the left case organised with the oven and heated up. Take it out put the sealant on and in theory take the left side out of the oven and drop it on. If all goes well every bearing and part goes togeather with a clunk no forced pressure on any thing and it all comes to rest in its working spot nice and happy.
That's why it makes me nervice you get one go at it and have to be fast.

[CLO]

Do you have a way to test the effectiveness of the modifications you made to the piston?

Like sanding off the scuff marks so you have a better surface to read next time you pull the head?

[Tioli]

I wa at the KDX forum and was asked this question. I think the answer needs to be hear as well.

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Ok this is my thoughts to date 14/1/2016.
To fin or not to fin that is the question.

I asked a expert and he gave me the usual answer.
Q Tioli: do you fin the splinter between the transfer ports?

A: maybe.

Interrupted as a typical answer, work it out myself. So the answer is within my reach.

So how do you do that? I have two areas that need it. The transfer ports and the inlet bridge ports.

Fin or not to fin, when is it a fin and when is it bullet nosed and does it matter.

Ok take a area scan. How much area do I loose if I fin?
Determine flow.
Resolve shape.

Area known and ready to be assessed against improved flow.
Flow direction determined.

Recherché bullet design, fish, ship and plane.

A: for the transfer ports I will do a 20% fin and clean it up. There is so much going on around there I don't need to mess it up.

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The inlet bridges are so different. Area is a bigger player hear. I have the VFORCE reeds so the flow Is shared amongst 4 streets. Area map it every mm from when it leaves the reeds to in the cylinder. Compare advantage to disadvantage of effect of shape to flow.

A: I just don't know but I will choose not to fin for the following reasons:

Minimal loss of area.
Maximum strength support for the rear bridges against cylinder base.
I do not want to develop top end at a loss to bottom end. I want to encourage bottom end so dilleberetly did not fin the bridges where they enter the under cylinder area. I did clean them up which did increase area by about 20% but the reverse was kept flat as a anti flow tool. Planed reshape of rear boost port designed for bottom end power The flow through that area will have a big influence on flow through rear boost port. I want to lessen and redirect.

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The in come lead edges of the rear bridges are leaning towards just clean them up. The lead edge has to compensate for expansion as the charge leaves the reeds. The advantage of volume in the area to proposed increase flow is just not there. For estetic reasons it's attractive but function overrides

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That's the opinion of this left handed dyslexic.
Thank you brother. .

[Tioli]

Ok I failed. I just can't get the solid feel out of the brake leaver with a Kawasaki Nissin master cylinder. SS lines blead and purged heeps, just can't be done.
With a Honda CR125, 11mm master cylinder I can get the feel I'm after.

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Edit
Ok that's the set up close enough to what I'm after. Close enough to what I'm after insofar as they disappear. No improvements come to minde when you use them. You use brakes far to often to put up with a reminder they ain't right every time you use them. With the CR master cylinder most of the time you don't know I have them then occasionally you have to brake harder than the norm. My attention goes straight to my two brake fingers. You have the option of ease, skid, stoppy in theory.
With the Kawasaki it went take up, sponge, firmer. With the CR its take up, firm. As the set up is efficient it seems matural with out much pressure.

Front
CR125 master cylinder
Braided line
Sinted pads.

Rear
Brake pedal lowered so that in the sitting position I just move my tows left and press.
Some type of composite pads but not sinted.
Set up so its a dragging brake and locking up is a conscious effort.

[CLO]

5mm and 10mm plate on top of each other.

Was 15mm the final spacer thickness you went with?