My long time friend the pransing horse

[Tioli]

Forks are ready to go on. One side is pressurised air.

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Rebound on the other

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Compression at the top

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Big tapered stearing head bearings

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New Chinese full carbon Handel bars. There is a certain amount of anxiety in that statement.

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On the plus side they weigh nothing

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[Tioli]

You get a special pump for the air pressure.

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I may have to get a shorter handlebar mount now that the frame is longer? Or mount it higher or lower.

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Because I'm fitting a bigger disk you need a spacer to move the caliber up and out.

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If this does no work as well as I want you can get 4 spot callipers.

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The sprocket turned up

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[Tioli]

The white shifter cable turned up and all my tools want to mangel it while cutting to length.

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The best way I find is to use a Dremel cut off wheel

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The gear shifting sensor runs inline with the cablleing. Only problem is I can't push the cable wire in there

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And opening it ruined the waterproofing. Luckily I know a new product that should fix that when it's set up.

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[Tioli]

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Should tuck away enough sitting there.

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For some reason it's normal for cables on bycicles to run down the sane side as the leaver. I can't see the sense in that as it puts a lot of preasure on bends and rubs on the frame.
For this build il run them down the opposite sides and they won't even touch the steering head.

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There is a little screw in the shifter bracket. If you put it in 9th gear the cable just backers out.

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Shifter and brakes are two seperate units.

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[Tioli]

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Slight problem is the top shifter leaver won't come back enough to shift the gears. The bottom one moves forward and the top back.

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If I hold or I place where it's clicking point is to shift.

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[Tioli]

And slide on the throttle

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I can't bend it down as the bottom leaver goes under it when pushing to change gears.

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The other throttle options were a full whith throttle or thumb one

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Some filing back fixed the problem and still feels normal.

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Cut back a hand grip and it all fits.

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To seal the sensor back up I give it a good spray of plastic paint.

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[Tioli]

The way you are suposed to measure a new chain length is io overlap it on the bigest gears and count one to two links and cut it.

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I'm going to go three in case I break one while out and will still have enough chain to repair with a spare joining link.

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When on the big gear on the back it runs close to the tyre

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The white braided brake line also turned up. I will only go white on the back brake. The front one can stay black and blend in with the forks and disappear.
I don't remember how long ago it's been since Iv used a olive to join a line.

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[Tioli]

Wheel speed sensor
Glad I buy cable ties in packets of 100. I do it up then realise there is a bette way, other way round, use a white one and on it goes.

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[Tioli]

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The top Allan head bolt is longer and not Philips head.

By screwing a longer bolt in there is opens the gate of the derailleur. If you dident it runs into the big sprocket.

The two middle screws are limiters to how far it goes from side to side.

The handle bar shifter controls the gap between sprockets.

Tension the cable and set.

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It seems this is enough to change smoothly.

This sprocket is low grade steel one Having said that it is steel. I have read so many stories of emotors twisting big sprockets on 10 and 11 speeds.
This is the only one I have seen for sale that is made like this from the factory. I hope the steel is good.

There is suposed to be 160Nm of torque going through that. Now I don't know what this means but it can't be good.

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The cable is attached to an adjustable ratchet. The setting is at one or two clicks from least adjusted side. As the cable settles in I will keep it in the range by kicking it up to tighten.

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When I was looking at getting a emotor there were a few options as in which motor and then accessories for that motor. At the time I would have been good to see the Bafang gear change sensor in action. As it was I just figured a gear change sensor would be a good option.
So hear goes:

https://youtu.be/MP9gJAEFdJQ

[Tioli]

For some reason I you bleed the rear brake really well and get a solid leaver. Then 4 hours later check the brakes and the leaver is soft with air in the system.

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Luckily I found this new old stock one the same as the ones on it

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One thing about these is the quality is on a small scale.

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Brake sensor wire

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