Basket Cases

[outforfun]

I am getting off to a slow start with the refurbishment of my TY175. I'm stripping bits for vapour blasting at the moment and it's brake hub time.

I have 2 different types of hubs and am not sure if 1 is a ring in, or if it's correct. The problem I have is that all 3 of my TY's are 1976 build, 2 are standard C models and the other is a road going version - the JC?

So I stripped a front hub out and looking at the other one from the JC, it looks way different. The rim is also chrome. It wasn't fitted completely when I got it. The fork legs are all the same looking units.

For those who know their TY's, is it the correct wheel or a ring in?

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[David Lahey]

Yes the chrome rim front wheel is from something other than a TY. Does it have a matching backing plate? Are there numbers cast into the inside?
The front hub with no rim or spokes looks like a TY but the photo showing the insides is too blurry to be sure

[outforfun]

Thanks for that David.

I should have said that the stripped hub is the same as the hub from my trusty TY175C that I've been riding for a while. So I guessed it is correct. The backing plate isn't the same as the other 2 and this had me thinking incorrect wheel or possibly the JC had a different one. As I don't know anything about them.

The only thing that I could see in the ring in was the wear limit of 410.5mm, huge for a 175.

Is it possible that it's off a 250?
Or more likely not even a TY?

I'll clean everything up and get a couple of clear photos. Someone might know what it belongs to.

[Greg Harding]

Hi Everyone,

The only thing that I could see in the ring in was the wear limit of 410.5mm, huge for a 175.

Is it possible that it's off a 250?
Or more likely not even a TY?

Don, the JC model has the same wheels as all of the 175s and some of the 250s. I think you have a typo with 410.5 wear limit as that is bigger than the hub, a good way to end up with nothing. I think you have a front wheel as they are fairly similar in the way they bolt up. See photo of TL 125/250 front wheel and brake plate compared to TY 175 assembly. Yours is not a TL wheel because of steel rim but I think the hub is the same. We should get together and buy a job lot of Stainless Steel spokes as I have a pair of TY wheels I am rebuilding.

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...... sensible cable routing,

Hi Everyone,

Greg, how is the tank problem going and nice work on the kickstarter as they are renowed for breaking as I recall I had a green from brand new and had problems with the kickstarter early on and I think thIats the one I gave you.

So in my absence, I see Greg and David have been attempting to have a KT clutch lightening "shoot off"...... Greg, so using the KX250 clutch cover creates a straighter pull for the cable, but did you have to do any other modifications to get it to fit and how hard is getting an early KX250 clutch cover?

I am missing a few parts, so does anyone have any spare KT parts lying around to help me ?

CHIPPY

CHIPPY, the is going beautifully and I have been riding it for a couple of months now, the tank issue seems to be sorted IF I fuel it before riding and drain after riding. A couple of times, I have left fuel in it overnight and the tank does not suck in like it used to but I don't want to risk leaving fuel in it for longer than a day so, all good. To summarize, the soak tank was worth the effort and I will reuse before I ride it after sitting for more than a week or so.

The KX clutch cover was also worth the effort but you may have more luck finding Unicorn Horn? Oh and the only problem was the old kickstarter does not fit, however cleverly fitted a hole big enough for a piece of rope. You know the kind found at the pointy end of a boat. I could not see one of these in your photos so I sent it in the mail:

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Please confirm your address?
CHIPPY
250 Green and White Road

1975

[David Lahey]

Hi Everyone,

...... sensible cable routing,

Yes that was specially for you Greg

[David Lahey]

Hi Everyone,
The KX clutch cover was also worth the effort but you may have more luck finding Unicorn Horn? Oh and the only problem was the old kickstarter does not fit, however cleverly fitted a hole big enough for a piece of rope. You know the kind found at the pointy end of a boat.

After all, the parent company for our beloved is called Kawasaki HEAVY Industries. At least the standard kickstart lever is extremely durable. Can't wait to see what you've fitted. Also am keen to go and check what else has the same spline

[David Lahey]

On the subject of weights of kickstart levers, many years ago a friend managed to break the beautifully forged and elegantly shaped aluminium kickstart lever on his XR600 and decided to replace it with one that wouldn't let him down. He made it from 20mm diameter round steel bar. Well it didn't break again after that

[chippy]

Hi Everyone,

Don, how are you going with your TY refurbishment? Are you doing the vapour blasting yourself?

Greg, good to see that you are getting a lot of use out of your due to the constant work you put it on it...

David, I have managed to get the clutch basket apart on my KT basket case and was wondering what needs to be done to "service" the clutch basket and the steel plates etc... Do you mean to file back the small ridges in the clutch basked left by the plates? What else do I need to do while its apart? I looked through my TY spares and I dont have any spare clutch springs.....

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[David Lahey]

Hi Everyone,
David, I have managed to get the clutch basket apart on my KT basket case and was wondering what needs to be done to "service" the clutch basket and the steel plates etc... Do you mean to file back the small ridges in the clutch basked left by the plates? What else do I need to do while its apart?

Either file down those ridges or take it to someone who knows how to use a milling machine where it could be done very fast and you will get the surfaces nice and square and parallel (much better than filing). I gave up on filing them after I had my first basket machined.
Terry Telfer will probably disagree with making them square but mine work amazingly well.
Another thing to do is to order a set of new friction plates because with old friction plates it will slip more readily after you use less clamping force on the pressure plate. I don't know why friction plates lose friction over time but they do.
Check that all the steel plates are perfectly flat. If there is curvature, the clutch will require too much travel to take advantage of the high ratio hand lever you are probably going to use.
Pull the rack and pinion out and clean them and the casing and have a real good look for anything that might cause friction before you reassemble. Don't do the final rack and pinion assembly until you have fitted the new plates and assembled the clutch onto the gearbox, so you can choose which position on the rack you need to use so that the arm on the pinion is at 90 degrees to the cable as the load goes onto the release bearing. Make sure you have the gasket fitted to the primary cover when you do this.
KTs come with thin wavy springs between the plates which are intended to reduce clutch plate rattle and help the plates to separate but I find it works fine without them.
As well as being flat, the steel plates need to be rough so they don't stick to the friction plates. With new friction plates it is not that important because new friction plates are usually a bit rough anyway, but with older, smooth friction plates it is critical to have rough steel plates.
As for springs, these look good: https://yambits.co.uk/dt175-clutch-spri ... kl7j3c6c15
If you are patient enough I'll have a look in my shed for some clutch springs that match what I put in my KT.

[Cota 123]

I recently picked up a basket case Montesa 123T. The previous owner bent the forks and threw away some of the parts! I reckon I can straighten the forks but require the threaded fork top. I believe the part number is 2835. 002. The forks are 30 mm OD.

New ones are available but I was hoping someone might have some good used ones?

The bike also came with two completely different shocks which is handy! I have looked at new ones but they all seem to be much larger in spring diameter (2") than the originals (40mm) and they might look out of place on such a small bike. I don't need the ultimate shocks as it will only be trail ridden, just something usable and not worn out.