Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:12 pm
Towball carriers are great, I use mine (one of Phil's beauties) on the back of my Hilux when I've got my canopy on, and now that I've fitted a towbar to my Falcon I'd say it'll get a fair run there.
A couple of points:
I wouldn't want my bashplate bolted solid to the rack as in Austini's version. I reckon that it's asking for bearing problems in your engine from road vibrations (I've seen a couple of similar failures from stationary bearings that lead me to this suspicion). Also I think you're better off having the bike's suspension to absorb some of the bigger road bumps. even if the bike moves around more it's got to be better for your rack and towbar.
I started out with the exact same light board on my rack, due to time contraints, but as soon as I had the chance I ripped it to bits, chucked the board in the bin and used the lights and wiring (shortened significantly), welded some tabs on the rack and Bob's your uncle. The main reason is the light board looks crap on such a well build rack! Do yourself a favour and whack a couple of those neat looking welds on some angle steel and screw in some lights and a number plate.
A number plate can be easily fashioned from a bit of white coreflute plastic and an Artline texta. I've got a different rego on each side so I can just turn it over for the other car. If there's a house for sale around the corner you can easily "borrow" a 100mm x 300mm piece off the sign with a stanley knife (if it sells for a good price they'll just put your council rates up anyway). Light for the number plate is usually provided by a clear lens in the side of one of the tail lights.
It seems to me (I stand to be corrected) that all towbars are the same width (well, all mine are) so it might be easier to weld on those "centraliser" tabs than stuffing around with ropes every time?
Tell me to sod of if you like, but that looks like a bit of a dog of a purchase on Ebay! Supercheap have got those lightboards on special this week for about fifty bucks, and they come with two unbroken lenses and a plug of your choice! You can pick up a longer towball while you're there, then you've got a spare nut to use as a locknut.
Make sure you check what the combined weight of your rack and bike and that this comfortably fits within the towball downforce rating of your towbar and car. It'd be handy to be able to quote the figures if Mr Plod ever asks, but more importantly it may void your insurance if it's over and you have a stack.
Thanks for letting me dump my brain contents on the subject, can you tell that I have far to long a drive to get to trials? much to much thinking time.
regards
Bryan
A couple of points:
I wouldn't want my bashplate bolted solid to the rack as in Austini's version. I reckon that it's asking for bearing problems in your engine from road vibrations (I've seen a couple of similar failures from stationary bearings that lead me to this suspicion). Also I think you're better off having the bike's suspension to absorb some of the bigger road bumps. even if the bike moves around more it's got to be better for your rack and towbar.
I started out with the exact same light board on my rack, due to time contraints, but as soon as I had the chance I ripped it to bits, chucked the board in the bin and used the lights and wiring (shortened significantly), welded some tabs on the rack and Bob's your uncle. The main reason is the light board looks crap on such a well build rack! Do yourself a favour and whack a couple of those neat looking welds on some angle steel and screw in some lights and a number plate.
A number plate can be easily fashioned from a bit of white coreflute plastic and an Artline texta. I've got a different rego on each side so I can just turn it over for the other car. If there's a house for sale around the corner you can easily "borrow" a 100mm x 300mm piece off the sign with a stanley knife (if it sells for a good price they'll just put your council rates up anyway). Light for the number plate is usually provided by a clear lens in the side of one of the tail lights.
It seems to me (I stand to be corrected) that all towbars are the same width (well, all mine are) so it might be easier to weld on those "centraliser" tabs than stuffing around with ropes every time?
Tell me to sod of if you like, but that looks like a bit of a dog of a purchase on Ebay! Supercheap have got those lightboards on special this week for about fifty bucks, and they come with two unbroken lenses and a plug of your choice! You can pick up a longer towball while you're there, then you've got a spare nut to use as a locknut.
Make sure you check what the combined weight of your rack and bike and that this comfortably fits within the towball downforce rating of your towbar and car. It'd be handy to be able to quote the figures if Mr Plod ever asks, but more importantly it may void your insurance if it's over and you have a stack.
Thanks for letting me dump my brain contents on the subject, can you tell that I have far to long a drive to get to trials? much to much thinking time.
regards
Bryan