6yrs of Rev3 Waterpump Corrosion

[pooches]

I have a 2004 Rev3 270 (purchased in 2007). After i noticed the oil was milky white I found it had corrosion problems which I fixed with plastic steel. So far so good.

Subanator - happy that you have solved the problem but I was really p..ssed off at the time. Not all of us are as mechanically minded as you are. I would not know where to start with bushes, bearings, gaskets etc (I don't "maintain and ride any dirt bike"). It took me a quite a few days of trial and error to fix (bodgy) the issue - hopefully

So you have paid for 3 x replacement cases?? Does that seem normal?

I do hope Beta has fixed this problem now.

[Tee-Why]

Subanator, did you purchase your 2003 model new?

It was about 2 years old by the time I got it.

I have a 2004 Rev3 270 (purchased in 2007).
Subanator - happy that you have solved the problem but I was really p..ssed off at the time. Not all of us are as mechanically minded as you are. I would not know where to start with bushes, bearings, gaskets etc (I don't "maintain and ride any dirt bike"). It took me a quite a few days of trial and error to fix (bodgy) the issue - hopefully

So you have paid for 3 x replacement cases?? Does that seem normal?

I do hope Beta has fixed this problem now.

Yep can be a bit daunting to see coolant in the oil sight glass!
Yes, unfortunately I have paid for 3x cases. , but then again some spend more on new tyres and new guards and stickers each year, or sell their bike after a season or two so not to incur maint costs or do ANY maint. in that time (buyer beware!)
In there is a large number of Beta bikes relative to riders. Only half of all Rev 3's ever developed this problem. On the UK TC, much the same comments over the last couple of years have been discussed. The local dealer assures me the new models have this sorted.
Talking to my brother, the early CR Honda's had magnesium cases and suffered similar problems back in the late '80's to early '90's. He just runs pure demineralized water, no coolant, never had a failure or engine boil since. This CR500 has been MX'ed and desert raced successfully in NW WA heat. I now myself use in the Rev3 270 Techalloy Gold green coolant since changing the casing to aluminum one. Inspection proves all is good.

Also at what cost to Sherco owners incur to get frames rewelded etc as a comparison? This also has been an ongoing issue, as with many brand bikes with design niggles.

[Neo]

It's interesting how passionate and defensive Beta owners get about the quality of their bikes

Also at what cost to Sherco owners incur to get frames rewelded etc as a comparison? This also has been an ongoing issue, as with many brand bikes with design niggles.

I suppose when you can't blame your own choices have a crack at someone elses
But in Sherco's defense...this was just for one year (not 6 years). And Sherco replace the frames FOC (in all participating locations).

Keep this thread rolling...I'm loving it


Best of balance.

Neo

[nipper]

It's interesting how passionate and defensive Beta owners get about the quality of their bikes

I suppose when you can't blame your own choices have a crack at someone elses
But in Sherco's defense...this was just for one year (not 6 years). And Sherco replace the frames FOC (in all participating locations)

Neo

You got that right Neo, love is blind !

[Tee-Why]

It's interesting how passionate and defensive Beta owners get about the quality of their bikes

I wonder if Italian bikes bring out the passion, bit like Ducati owners

Anyway, I will keep it real, like the first batch of Beta EVO frames that cracked also !!! or having a crack at the Gasser (I think) gearbox issues a while back. I knew I was going to get a bite about Sherco's, its par for the course!

Design issue go way back in all models and brands. Just as I replaced the casing on the Rev3, and my TY175 casing was smashed by the kickstart lever, a known issue with the return stop lug weld breaks on the kickstart output shaft. Fix the holed casing and replace the output shaft, just get on with it and put it behind you and go ride it, no point in bagging the brand or issue. It repairable, preventable and there is a solution.

Also the Rev3 corrosion problem, repairable, preventable and a solution. Beta owners - do not be deterred. Check every six months. Change the casing for the aluminum one - problem solved.

I will correct my previous comment on 3x casings I paid for, when in fact I changed 3, I had the first one supplied free by the WA dealer as the problem surfaced within 6 months of ownership. So the corrosion took around 2 years from new to surface. I should have put the aluminum one one then, but I chose the magnesium alloy one. 18 months later the new casing corrosion had started, (bike wasnt ridden for 12 months during this time), so I epoxied the waterpump housing. This extended the life by 6 months and holed out. Corrosion got under the seal edge of the cover's o-ring groove and worked down. It doesnt need much of a weakness of exposed metal to start.

TIP Electrolysis will deposit the magnesium to aluminum and will become white gritty paste that will accumulate in the engine coolant passages and radiator cores.
I used a garden hose pressure to flush out this through the motor and radiator, reverse flushing also. Then drain the bike by laying right over on its side to get the hose water out to drain with the waterpump cover off. Also if the coolant got in the oil, drain out as per normal drain plug, or when casing off, drain further with bike tilted over. Refill when assembled and ride bike to normal temp, drain again if oil colour still looks cloudy. Drain oil and replace oil again if necessary.
This is the same for leaking waterpump seals on any bike. (But they may not have an oil sight glass).

Trialtech, I have enjoyed your articles that you have done, well presented and informative.
Hope I have provided some detail for you.
Cheers,
Roger

[Neo]

You're a wise man Roger....a wise man indeed

Best of balance.

Neo

[kembro]

04 Rev3 owned 12mths, small leak started at the pump.
Replaced by Beta Racing will get the aluminum one next time.
Cheers

[TRIALTECH]

thanks Kembro. that's a great outcome

[TRIALTECH]

I was hoping to hear only from those whom purchased their Rev3 from new but the information so far has been very useful nevertheless. Problem with a 2nd hand machine is that one can never know the exact service history and therefore it is difficult to 100% blame a component in the 2nd hand scenario when some other factor may have contributed. However, if the casing is replaced and then corrodes again, then that is an issue.

Subanator, you mentioned "I tried the recommended synthetic coolants and brands to no avail". I am no chemist and correct me if I am wrong but to my knowledge coolants are Glycol based which is derived from Ethylene oxide, an unsaturated hydrocarbon. I wasn’t aware there are synthetic coolants available other than for machine tooling applications which is a completely different product. Are you sure they were synthetic? Please provide the brand names so we all know which ones not to use.

Your comment about pure demineralised water is a good one. I have test the Rev3 with a new magnesium casing and deliberately used tap water, then demineralised water, and deionised water and the casing did not corrode over a given period known to be problematic when using coolant. In another test using the same liquids, an already damaged case did continue to disintegrate marginally from the cavitation action but then settled and ceased. Therefore, I can confidently conclude that electrolysis is not a contributing factor. I do not recommend the use of water only given it provides no corrosion protection for other components, does not lubricate the water pump seal/shaft to the same effect as coolant, and does not provide the enhanced convective heat transfer properties of coolant. Coolants have been designed & proven to contribute to the longevity of engine components and other fittings. Note that coolant brands/types should not be mixed as there is risk of the coolant mixture coagulating which blocks the radiator passages. In addition, it is important to note that coolant has a limited shelf life.

Another issue to consider is the effect of coolant entering the gearbox area. Whilst milky fluid might sound like no big deal, coolant is not designed to service clutch/gearbox components and even short term contamination may have long term effects on bearings, selectors etc.

The comments thus far have shown that even if you are technically capable of working with this issue, considerable time and money can be spent before the problem can be satisfactorily and permanently resolved.

I would suggest to any owner who purchased their Rev3 new to urgently inspect their water pump for signs of the above symptoms.

Regards
Denis Lovett
Trialtech

[Tee-Why]

Denis, I understand there is the organic type coolant - ethylene glycol based, and the synthetic type coolant - propylene glycol based.

I used the synthetic coolant Belray No-Tox with a previous casing, and it failed the corrosion prevention. I believe Silkolene Pro Cool is another, but I know of an owner who has gone through 2x cases running this brand. On TC, recommendations to use a Redline Oils product and another called Engine Ice. Many of the failures I know of had either coolant type used.

I agree that pure water is ok to use to stop electrolysis as it demineralized and deionized has such low conductivity it cannot happen, and also agree on no lubrication, anti-boil/ant-freeze properties.

Interestedly I recently received this link as this topic came up, havent tried the suggested cleaning method, but explains again about differences in coolants.

I would go further and suggest any Rev3 owner that still has magnesium alloy casings or is not sure, and runs either type of coolant to check a least every 6 months. I doesnt take long for the corrosion to start, 6 months gives you a chance to remedy it before it fails.
I just let the coolant out of the drain screw, take the 3x cover bolts off, and remove the cover to check. If all ok, put back together, be careful of o-ring seal on cover not to pinch it, refill coolant to bottom of radiator neck (just squeeze to hose to push up to cap height, this is the height of coolant required), overfill and it will get to the required level, but the excess venting off keeps you guessing.

Cheers, Roger