Specifications for 158
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Bully fanatic
- Expert participant
- Posts: 403
- Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:56 pm
- Club: westerndistricttrialsclub
- Bike: Bultaco sherpa T
Re: Specifications for 158
Hello Drew. Your Sherpa looks really good. One thing that might help with starting it is to move the kickstart round one more notch forward on the spline as that gives them a lot better movement inside the motor. One other thing is on all of the Amals you have to watch the slide very closely for wear, also watch the needle and the needle jet as well as these parts are a high wear item. The MK 2 Amals are reasonably good carburetors. That is why they replaced the MK 1`s. They just used to wear the slides out really quickly. They also look much better if you put some black paint on the ignition and primary cases around the Bultaco area. Not on the Bultaco but in the hollows. They all came standard like that and it does look really good. Graham.
Re: Specifications for 158
What ta? is that where the E.T.A machine had the speedo? no wonder I closed my eyes when I walked in to the Bultaco shop to buy Italjet parts, I also walked out backwards 
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Justdrew
- Junior participant
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:21 am
- Club: Townsville Motorcycle Restorer
- Bike: Sherpa T 158
- Location: Townsville
Re: Specifications for 158
Hello, those who have followed this thread thanks for all the input. My 158 is now going well. Here is the stuff I've learnt along the way which may be of use to some other poor bugger trying to do the same, that is make a 158 street legal.
If the bike is devoid of lights when you get it there should be a wire going from green from the magneto to the frame, probably near the coil. This wire is not needed when the full lighting loom is installed. HOWEVER you do need a good earth to get things working. Tom Newell advised me to make sure there was no paint between the HT coil and frame and that the resistor and earth wire near the airbox were also making good contact. If not problems arise. When I had mine running this extra green wire was acting as the earth and the brake light wouldn't work.
On trials central.com the Bultaco forum has lots and lots of posts about wiring, P Schuaber (sic) has posted a colour version of the wiring diagram for the 158.( very helpful )
Renthal anodised handlebars do not make a good earth for switch blocks, I had to sand mine with wet and dry to get the horn to work.
I have had good support for bits and pieces from Don and Tom Newell in Brisbane and from Peter and Margaret at Bultaco Parts Australia. It amazes me what you can still get for these machines.
Once again thanks for the info and I hope to see some of you at a twin shock ride in the near future.
If the bike is devoid of lights when you get it there should be a wire going from green from the magneto to the frame, probably near the coil. This wire is not needed when the full lighting loom is installed. HOWEVER you do need a good earth to get things working. Tom Newell advised me to make sure there was no paint between the HT coil and frame and that the resistor and earth wire near the airbox were also making good contact. If not problems arise. When I had mine running this extra green wire was acting as the earth and the brake light wouldn't work.
On trials central.com the Bultaco forum has lots and lots of posts about wiring, P Schuaber (sic) has posted a colour version of the wiring diagram for the 158.( very helpful )
Renthal anodised handlebars do not make a good earth for switch blocks, I had to sand mine with wet and dry to get the horn to work.
I have had good support for bits and pieces from Don and Tom Newell in Brisbane and from Peter and Margaret at Bultaco Parts Australia. It amazes me what you can still get for these machines.
Once again thanks for the info and I hope to see some of you at a twin shock ride in the near future.