Trials Australia Forums

You've done very well so far Mark. I'm glad you had a go this way because Terry's idea for a brief explanation of what is standard may not have been as interesting to read. Of course Terry could always answer his own question and show how much shorter the answer would be, which would definitely add to the fun.
There are at least two more major non-standard design features and for both of them it would aid things if you had a standard TY175 to refer to, because the builder has done such a professional job that they look like they could have been done in the factory. In fact many people have wondered why one of the changes was not done at the factory.
Surely it wouldn't be cheating to have a look at a photo of a standard one.

That's a good effort by Mark

I'd add:

Bottom frame tubes removed
Swingarm pivot relocated forward & swingarm lengthened (behind the shock mounts) to match,
which means the shocks are more upright with more leverage giving more travel and more ground clearance
Different gussets for footpeg mounts
Relocated (lower and rearward) footpegs & different footpegs
Rake looks somewhat steeper than standard TY175


The diff front hub is MX/YZ 250/360
The diff forks maybe TY mono but I can't tell for sure
The diff clutch cover is YZ125
Triples look like twinshock TY (reamed out if they're mono forks)

Well JC1 got the two remaining differences spot on.
As for the forks John they do look like TY mono forks but they are not. I'm confident you or someone will work it out. They were made in the 1970s and don't forget that the owner lives in Japan.

Off a factory KT or OW Yam???

JC1 wrote:Off a factory KT or OW Yam???

Yes John. Works Yamaha forks. It's amazing what you can find in Japan. The tank is not ex-works but a modern replica of a works Yamaha tank.

David Lahey wrote:

JC1 wrote:Off a factory KT or OW Yam???

Yes John. Works Yamaha forks. It's amazing what you can find in Japan. The tank is not ex-works but a modern replica of a works Yamaha tank.

I'm thinking the front wheel might be something special too not just a normal YZ item but I can't remember what he told me about it a few years ago.
The frame mods are very interesting. He's removed the toolbox section and fitted very nice gusseting which allows plenty of clearance for the cross-over pipe header.
The swingarm pivot location on this bike makes for the front edge of the swingarm being very close to the gearbox and just enough room for the head of the pivot bolt ahead of the frame upright. I've seen many other TY175 frames where to get the swingarm pivot exactly where they want it, they have done away with the frame uprights and replaced them with flat sections of plate very much like on an SWM TL.

Has the rake been pulled in too David, or am I just imagining it ?
Or is it just the effect of the raised rear end?

JC1 wrote:Has the rake been pulled in too David, or am I just imagining it ?
Or is it just the effect of the raised rear end?

I think he retained the standard geometry of the main frame loop.
Other things apart from the height of the rear end that may be affecting how the fork angle appears are :
The triple clamps may be different to standard to make up for the leading axle fork sliders.
The forks may be shorter than standard.

Hi Everyone,

Just thought I would give an update on my , I am really enjoying the riding and it certainly makes the effort worthwhile. Having ridden it for the last 3 weekends and getting feedback from the bike along with fine tuning some of the little things makes me really happy! A couple of things that I wasn't happy with have now all been resolved with the main bug bear being the clutch that was not very progressive. The feel and drive were good and the motor in general has not done much work, it is a warm and fuzzy feeling removing the clutch cover and finding Genuine gasket and unmolested JIS screws (similar to Philips) holding the filter cover. Even better when there is almost nothing caught in the filter. Makes me think very low Kilometres so the clutch wasn't slipping even with a fair bit of abuse punching up steps. However the snappiness plays havoc with my timing and I find that I can be further ahead than I want to be rather quickly.

The BLOODY (TLR 250) had worn clutch plates and more torque so I went with Barnett plates and the Anti Judder Kit to make it more progressive. The results are no slip and progressive feel but the 200 is a bit different and I think more snappy in the clutch than the 250 ever was. So the fix was simply fit the Anti Judder Kit:

The thing that I find interesting is it was a fix from back in the day, if you complained about the clutch being snappy while under warranty, the fix was free and if you left it until out of warranty you had to pay! It certainly works as I can now stand and balance on full lock and take off in any of the bottom 3 gears without reducing lock. Whereas before it was simply awkward, in the same situation it would push the front straight ahead ploughing on loose surfaces or lift and skip the front until it bit in on anything a bit grippy.

Somehow I managed to find this and I would like another to have as a spare:

Something tells me that I got the last NOS Genuine 9T in existence? The 9Ts run quieter than the Talon 9Ts.

Greg have to ask. Wouldn`t the 9 tooth countershaft sprocket wear the chain out very fast? The smallest I can go on a real Trials bike is an 11 tooth. I can remember reading that folk used to warn against using a 10 tooth on the front as it made everything wear really quickly.