Trials Australia Forums

Kurt wrote:No reason you couldn't weld up your damaged magneto case Finally1.

I don't know if Greg knows of a capable weldor?

I have been told this alloy doesn't weld well. I would prefer a clean one as I want to do as good a resto as I can with what's available. But yes I will also go down the repair path.

brent j wrote:

Westy wrote:I have a basket case. It's and RL250. It's in a very small basket. The exhaust pipe is missing the rest of the bike.

I have a few parts for sale.

What parts do you have Westy? I'm particularly after a pair of fork legs

I would be interested as well in RL parts. A good seat pan maybe.

Hi Everyone,

brownie wrote:I think that’s a mk4 or even maybe mk5/6 Lobito rear wheel they had the solid aluminium hub
A m99 has a bolt on spoke carrier or should do
https://www.uniquemotorcars.net/bultaco ... -model-99/

Thank you Ross, you certainly know your s.

Finally 1, I Love that Tail light!

Finally1 wrote:

brent j wrote:

Westy wrote:I have a basket case. It's and RL250. It's in a very small basket. The exhaust pipe is missing the rest of the bike.

I have a few parts for sale.

What parts do you have Westy? I'm particularly after a pair of fork legs

I would be interested as well in RL parts. A good seat pan maybe.

Is it only me that thinks Westy is selling a exhaust pipe?

Off topic I know but I need help with this, just picked it up and it has been sitting for I think 30 odd years! Also gone under in floods and I am after suggestions for freeing it up. The screw goes in deep and doesn't look like moving.......

Hi Rusty.
Acetone and brake fluid mixture.

whitehillbilly

Or just soak it in some diesel fuel.

Provided there is no grease or oil residue on the thread, you could submerge the whole thing in molasses which will not only free up the thread by dissolving the rust, the rest of it will look very pretty.
I use poly tanks and plastic buckets for molasses treatments, but in your case that huge old vise might even fit inside that fancy stainless steel tank you made for the Italjet fuel tank.

Hi Everyone,

whitehillbilly wrote:Hi Rusty.
Acetone and brake fluid mixture.

whitehillbilly

Shane, is that 50/50?

Bully fanatic wrote:Or just soak it in some diesel fuel.

Graham, this is getting expensive....

David Lahey wrote:Provided there is no grease or oil residue on the thread, you could submerge the whole thing in molasses which will not only free up the thread by dissolving the rust, the rest of it will look very pretty.
I use poly tanks and plastic buckets for molasses treatments, but in your case that huge old vise might even fit inside that fancy stainless steel tank you made for the Italjet fuel tank.

David, this might give you a better idea of scale, not Rusty scale:


Tanks for your help

People who have rebuilt an early 1970s bottom end will recognise these parts.
For others, this is the main gearbox shaft from an early 1970s motor. One end has a sleeve gear with a spline for the rear drive sprocket and the other end spline is for the clutch hub. I have taken the sleeve gear off the shaft to show the shaft better.
Earlier motors have a key driven clutch hub and later motors have needle roller bearings in the sleeve gear where this one has sintered bronze bushes.
The sleeve gear spins on the long shiny part of the shaft and this feature of the gearbox design is sensitive to how well the gearbox oil lubricates those sintered bronze bushes. Poor lubrication causes the shaft and the bushes to wear and eventually failure of the teeth on the sleeve gear due to misalignment from that wear which is a fairly common failure mode in these motors.
The shaft with the gears on it is from a Basket Case (1971/1972) model 85 Alpina and the long shiny bit and the bushes are in fairly good condition considering how old it is. I was going to use this shaft along with new bushes in a motor I am rebuilding.
However a couple of weeks ago the other shaft (which is new-old-stock) popped up for sale on eBay and I bought it for a reasonable price. I was expecting there to be some corrosion to clean up after all it has been sitting around in that plastic bag for about 49 years, but it looks perfect.
It's fairly amazing to still be able to buy new parts for a bike whose manufacturer went out of business 40 years ago.

That looks like a really good score there David. It is surprising how much NOS stuff is still out there for s.

Hi Everyone,

David Lahey wrote:I was expecting there to be some corrosion to clean up after all it has been sitting around in that plastic bag for about 49 years, but it looks perfect.
It's fairly amazing to still be able to buy new parts for a bike whose manufacturer went out of business 40 years ago.

David, Good quality things that are popular will always stimulate aftermarket parts when all genuine spares are exhausted. For example, you can buy absolutely anything for a Grey Fergy! Now that you mention it, I think my M49 has woodruff key clutch basket drive? What model did they change to spline drive?

On another note and after some head scratching, I managed to get the old vice apart, all of the bolts had a black tar type substance on the threads, I think Stockholm Tar was used on old threads? Anyway whatever it was made my job easier and I saved every bolt and nut. Years ago I pulled apart a broken John Heine folder and saved the bolts which were the right size to replace the ones that were removed for mounting to the Hardwood block so back to original now. The screwbox and screw was a bit harder but I psyched it out by laying all of my biggest tools next to it on the workbench and looked at it for a while with determination. Big Ridgid Stiltons and some leverage saw it Crack undone, to my amazement the thread was not rusty inside the screwbox. It was chock a block full of dirt/ silt that must have been left from the floods it endured!