Trials Australia Forums

No not from Townsville. I live in brisbane - north side.

Alan

Hey David

I first saw the molasses trick about 20 years ago.

An engineer that I contracted to fabricate steel for me had a huge drill press he had constructed of many things including an MGB gearbox and a giant "pock-riddled" chuck.

The chuck was covered all over in scars about twice the size of a match head.

He had bought the chuck for $5, totally frozen and rust encrusted, at an auction mainly out of intrigue, because an "old italian guy" there at the time had suggested to him that he could ressurect it by tossing it into a bucket of molasses for "a year or so".

The drill press worked famously!!!!!!!!

I have used the technique a couple of times, but never on a bike.

Which leads me to my next question.

A mate of mine donated his long forgotten TY175 to me during the week.

It has sat untouched in a dark dry garage for in excess of 20 years.

Unfortunately it had a near full tank of fuel and the tap turned off when left, so whilst the tank nas no battle scars and perfect paint, it has a rust hole that i could probably put my little finger through on the top about a third the way down from the filler hole. I haven't investigated it any further but imagine that where there is smoke there may be fire.

I thought maybe I ought to molasses it for a few months then cut the rust hole out patch it, then TANK KREME it. We will always see the scar, but that's OK.

Any better suggestions out there?

Alastair

Yes molasses will work well once you get rid of any fuel residue.
It may stain the paint if you have to submerge the whole tank.
Use something other than kreme. I haven't heard anything good about the long term performance of kreme. There are proprietary products for steel tanks that do work. See Scorps story about his KT250 tank on these forums. He has some good hints. There is also a story in VMX from a few issues ago showing a KT tank being treated.
I think the successful (steel and fibreglass) tank liners might be epoxy resin.
If it was my steel tank I wouldn't use a liner. I treated my KT tank internally with molasses about 6 years ago and just rinsed it out with water, sprayed it with WD40, and when that dried, rinsed it with petrol, then put the premix in. No probs since.

Talking about molasses. You know what? I did some shopping today. I bought a new 520 chain, transmission oil, a 6V horn, a 15 tooth PE sprocket and headed home to study. Before studying I played motorbike for 5 hours.
I put the new sprocket on. I cleaned the clutch actuator and put the left hand side of the engine together.
I actually used my old chain from the DT200 and the link from the 525 RL chain for now. I too some links out because I haven't set the chain tensioner up yet.
I took the original clutch cover off and put the one I polished on instead with the new gasket from B & J. Before all of this I traced the gasket.
Once that was all together I chucked the oil in the gearbox.
Guess what? No molasses but the oil was leaking out of the bottom. I tightened the cap screws on the bottom of the case. It was no good. It keeps leaking. BUGGER! I am going to have to make a thicker gasket. I put the original rear guard on so I didn't look like a complete yobbo.
Anyway. I took the bike over to the vacant block next door and turned the fuel cock on (the one I got with the steel tank). It leaks too! SHIT! Oh well. I am still busting for a ride.
I kicked it over and pulled the clutch in and whacked it into gear. THUD! The bike stalls. The clutch is stuck together after not doing anything for six years.
Seven or eight goes later the oil got into the clutch (the transmission has always had oil in it) and away I went. I adjusted the clutch cable. I was amazed! With a new clutch cable and a little WD40 on the actuator the clutch is lighter than the hydraulic clutch on my VRT1000. So light in fact I can pull it in with one finger. All of the clutch springs are installed. How good is that?
So, I rode in circles around the block in first gear for half an hour until I ran out of fuel. Ahhh that was fun! I even got it into fourth gear for a bit. Zoom Zoom huh.

All that is left is:
- Front and rear guards,
- Speedo cable,
- Fix fuel cock,
- Fix clutch cover leak,
- New tyres,
- Chain tensioner.
- Maybe a rear brake stop light switch.

Then I am ready to get the bike registered.

tat ty wrote:I thought maybe I ought to molasses it for a few months then cut the rust hole out patch it, then TANK KREME it. We will always see the scar, but that's OK.

Any better suggestions out there?

Alastair

Make a fibreglass tank. You know, the one I am building for the RL might just fit on your TY. What do ya reckon?

BEWARE!

David Lahey wrote:Yes molasses will work well once you get rid of any fuel residue.

Look at this link!!! http://boomeria.org/physicslectures/molasses.jpg

And...

The RL works. It's not pretty yet.

[youtube]KR6DR9zu8fU[/youtube]

No work on the guards today. I have exams starting next week so I have to put them on hold.

When I rode the RL last week I found that the pegs are far too smooth. I am thinking of making a retro-fitted peg tooth thing with grub screws in it.

I saw the thread of the guy who makes the weld on peg teeth. I like the grub screw idea at the moment.
Do you have any suggestions?

Today when I was riding home I was riding next to a Ford Focus XR5 Turbo. It was a wicked orange colour. It's metallic. I think it might be the colour for the RL.

I have been thinking about the rear guard. Because the guard will be 3mm smaller it may cause the need to re-evaluate the fastening at the front of the guard.
On the left of the bike the guard sits over a tab. On the right hand side of the bike the guard sits inside a tab. I am thinking that the guard will have to sit inside both tabs. All this probably means is that the two front fasteners would have to be installed from inside the guard. A good thing would be that I can drill holes to suit which would make the job easy.
Lets see how I next Tuesday for some more fibre glassing.

After reading Dave's posts on molasses in a few threads I am wondering if I should grab some molasses and pop it in my steel tank. I'll be using the steel one over the Aluminium tank. The tank doesn't look rusty inside. It's been sitting empty on the shelf at a wreckers for who knows how long Hmmmm. Thinking.