Trials Australia Forums

I slid a slip of paper between the leg and mount to see where it was touching. The paper was not restricted between the two so the problem is the spring can't push up enough to make its range further.


One way


The other way


So if the leg is recessed a little the spring would still be restricted by the side wall but could move up

A little extra dremel work to make sure.


The spring is just chopped off and rough


Clean up some so it slides nice.


Now the paper jams where the two meet. now metal can be taken away to extend the range.


When in place the mount block is on and angle and deffently not in the V of the frame.

When down its not fare enough forward. One slight push or angle and it will roll forward and go down.


Remove a little metal. That much in fact.


Then take the lips off to make look nice.


A few templates to make a mount. It's only 3mm but there are enough right angles to make it ridged.


Clean up and were good to paint.

With the leg cut to length and the boot put on its not quite where I thought it would go


But close enough.


It's all about the same height.


As part of my brake upgrades I got another big icetec disc for the rear.


Good thing they don't get any bigger as it wouldn't fit.

After a few test brake runs there is the beginning of a ware patten. What's interesting is the ware strip goes to the outside edge when I would have presumed it would be evenly spaced between the two outer edges.


The pad seems to be protruding above the disc




The shimano adapter measures 17.7 high


With the Chinese one 18mm which would make some difference.

If I run a fine file across both at the same time it comes up crooked. I'm a bit over this buy it twice Chniese stuff. You buy it once then realise it's not as good as you would like so buy it again properly.


The post mounts also have a few paint flaws


I have two pad separator springs, one thick and very springy and the other thin and weak. I guess the same applies hear as well.


All togeather with the Japanese parts and were good to go.

I couldent help myself and got another rim band. Safety first of course.


When I ordered the original white one I was thinking gloss white but it ended up being mat white and quite rough. At the tome it was questionable as to how it would stand up to grease and dirt from greasing the chain.


There is a lot to be said about these fat wheels. The grip is phenomenal, the material is light and thin so you don't need tyer leavers. Just let it down and pull it apart any way you want. You can run between 10 - 20 kp depending on what you want from them.
Only thing is on the road or concert bike trackers at above 30 kph they raw like 4 wheel drive tires

I was so excited abut the front brake upgrade. Read all about these 4 piston ceramic calipers.


Have never had ceramic piston brakes.


Pads are bigger, sintered and have fins to dissipate heat.


The spring decider is there to hold the pads apart further for better cooling.


Small compared to a motorbike but as usual higher quality.

The new part is the titanium insert into the brake hose end


As titanium its stronger it can go thinner walled for better flow and feel


Now I have been around for a few years and have learned a few golden rules. One of them is if you are going to use a brake master cilinder that has any age on it don't bleed brakes in a way where you push/pull the stroke past where it normally goes. If you do it will move the seal into the never used area which will be all crud and rip the seals to peices.

So the plan is do it all up, put clear line from the calliper nipple to a container and crack the nipple open and just keep filling the reservoir till the bubbles stop and close off. Rotate the calipers while tapping it and encourage any air pockets to travel up the line then flick the leaver to finish the bleeding.


Well the first part worked no air bubbles came out so it appeared to be a successful bleed.
Only problem the normal stroke range was hardly moving the pads. Would not even make it to the disc.

There was only one thing to try, pull it further to see when it would come in far enough. Problem is this breakers the golden rule.

A full brake stroke on a master cilinder made for two Pistons hardly moves a four piston calipers.

Example of breaking the golden rule is now when you pull the leaver in and let it out a little black stuff cones out


Do it against n a few times and your seal is shot. I put the old two piston calipers back on for the interim and now the leaver pulls all the way in and leeks fluid


Had to get the right master cilinder fir the calipers which has a variable, wave, cam design and is twice as small.

Packing for Phillip Island MotoGP