Trials Australia Forums

The photos of the 123 and 173 on that web page are good to compare with the drawing you posted. The 172 in the photo appears to have the rear frame loop bent upwards (like yours) compared with the 123, which would mean that the two dimensions on the drawing are probably 123 and 172, with 439mm for the 172
Yes the guards do look to be different radii for the 123 and 172 in the photos on that webpage, which is what you would expect for the different diameter wheels.

I have finally convinced the supplier that the mudguards are incorrect, but they don't have ones for a Cota 172.
As the wheel size for a 172 is the same as a Cota 247, they are going to send a pair of mudguards for one of them.
We'll see how they go

Well the supplier couldn't provide aluminium guards for a 172 Cota with 21" front and 18" rear wheels.
The best they could do was send me guards for a 247.
The front fits OK with some spacers between the fork legs and the guard mountings but the rear was another story
With a bit of cutting and some panel beating the clear the rear muffler it didn't finish up too bad but a bit short at the rear overhang.

Had a look at the air folter box.
It's suffered a bit of heat distortion and developed some cracks.
Any ideas how to weld/seal the cracks.

I'm have some issues with the kick start shaft.
Not just that the spline is twisted/bent

But there looks to be a piece of the crank case broken away where the stop on the kick start shaft should stop. It's where there is a "ramp" polished up where the kick start shaft rotates to and then causes the shaft to move sideways.

This is the part of the shaft that is also bent that slides up the aforementioned ramp.


Should I try and weld on some aluminium to build up where the "ramp" is.
Anyone have a photo on a normal case. I believe a 123 case is the same.

Well, with a search of the internet I found this image of what the stop for the kick start should look like.

This is what mine looks like

Now for someone that can weld aluminium

Did a bit of welding on the kick start shaft.
Before

After

Now the kick start returns to the correct position but I still need to build up the stop on the crank case with weld.
Can this be done without dismantling the crank cases ?

Did some more work on the Cota.
Had a suggestion from a member on here for a fix for the kick start stop on the crank case without having to pull it apart for welding.
Drilled and tapped a hole in the remaining boss of the kick start stop (used lots of grease on the drill and tap to catch all the swarf).

Fabricated a stop with two lugs. One goes under the return spring post and the other onto the boss.

Refitted the post and the retaining screw into the boss.

Note that I had to modify the top of the fabricated stop to clear the kick start gear when it's engaged.
Kick start shaft installed.

Just remember that the spring post goes right through the gearbox and out the other side. There is a little shouldered seal that has to be fitted to prevent the oil leaking out around the spring post on that side.

I also added an additional washer onto the kick start shaft before fitting the clutch cover to take out any excessive end float. It's the copper washer in the next photo.

Now the kick start moves smoothly and returns to the correct position

While fixing the kick start issue I noticed that the gear selector lever was rubbing on the back of the clutch basket

At the other end of the selector shaft there is a circlip and washer and the circlip had slid along the shaft.
When I pushed it back into position it would not pop into the circlip groove.
I measured the distance from the face of the washer to the edge of the groove and there was not enough distance for the circlip to fit into the groove. With an emery stone and elbow grease I shaved the washer back till the circlip would fit into it's correct position.
Must have been like this from new, but all fixed now.

Started giving the engine a good clean ready for installation into the frame, I used some aluminium cleaner and now clean has become polished



Anyone got any ideas how to clean between the barrel and head fins. Can't quite get a toothbrush in there