Trials Australia Forums

Putting the wiring harness back on is not as easy as I hoped. The ideal was to take it off service and put it back without evidence that it ever came off
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Hear the aluminium harness band doesn’t look like it’s has ever been disturbed
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Or hear
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But this does
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The ignition switch is upside down for some reason
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These are the wires that go to the tail light only the White and Blue are used for brake and tail light (frame earth) the others are for indicators.
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If the old style rectifier works ok then I will leave it as is, if not I have worked out how to replace it with a newer regulator / rectifier
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You know I have come to the realisation my current project thing is clean, serviced and shows its history. In that I am rewarded.

Foot brake light switch. It’s the only brake switch

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There is some rust in the tank so I think I need filters and that’s not OEM. So I cross the line and for serviceability, it’s a priority.



So then it means what else is serviceable certainly fuel line clamps are important

An interesting thing happened when I went to attach the cables. Took a carby cap off and stuck my finger in there to pull a slide out and it was stuck.
Had to prise it up with a screwdriver, tight all the way it was oiled on assembly so not dry. No unusual ware on the slide coating. When I went to do the other side it was stuck also. So when I forced it up flush with the top I got the heat gun and waved it across the carb a few times and it went clunk to the bottom. Few seconds to get it out or it clamps on again. It’s been cold hear in Tassie
I sharpie the slide all over and force it in and up and down a few times in the tightest spot. Front and back just above the throat wet and dry the raised areas and she’s all good to a point. Counting on it being warmer when I ride it.
That’s a surprising tolerance.





All ways a bonus to get the tool kit. 60 years ago they gave you what you needed to maintain it.





Air filters
I am surprised that 60 years ago this was considered best practice to keep the air clean and plentiful. it still holds up now.



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This is a progress point apart serviced and back together motor done.

For those that are following this I will be away for a month or so.

Old enough to see evolution, cast fittings like this haven’t made it I don’t think.

Time to put the swing arm on. Pre fit and mark where to fit a grease nipple.



Swing arm bushes look good. Note they are 50mm wide.



The swing arm is 49.6 so there is built in play. Doing up the swing arm shaft bolt is not going to compress mounts to reduce clearance.



The bushing cap has a recess for felt seals designed to keep the dirt out.



The felt is meant to be impregnated with grease. These are dry.



So I soke them in petrol Solvent vinegar detergent solvent till they are clean as I can get them without out putting much pressure on the 67 year old felt.



I was lucky enough to find a good condition swing arm shaft and caps on EBay ss mine has problems.



Note how the shaft is ground down from lack of grease and the end cap is pitted from rust.

The replacement is good as new so to prevent this from happening again I have to periodically grease the centre bushes which aren’t fed by a grease nipple which means it has to come apart and greases occasionally.which is a right pain in the ass so it’s easier to fit a grease nipple and there should have been one there in the first place.



Impregnate the felt seals with grease (not shown hear)



Drill tap fit a grease nipple and assemble.

The foot brake is cable operated with a shaft through the frame to the other side.

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The cable is attached to the frame and locked in place with a pin which doubles up as a spring mount.



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Grease the shaft and push through



The cable end is attached and notice the split pin hole so the cable can’t come out of its mount.



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The spring is there so the foot brake leaver is held up and brake switch depressed independently of the brake drum shoe springs.
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Some parts look like this which is not the patina I’m after as a finished product. Could do it, gently wash and preserve hmm but no.




Could be cleaned, protected, serviced and used Like this. Get to build some thing without loosing to much of its history.



The rear shocks didn’t look right as they don’t have the chrome lower spring cover. Why I don’t know.



I didn’t like my chances of finding some so had ro make them out of stainless steel exhaust tube. Forming the seat for the spring from tube was challenging for my lack of training. Nothing practice wouldn’t help.
After nearly 60 years the shocks don’t leek and still have dampening.



Both shockers have damage so the best looking sides is faced outwards.





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The pillion pegs look like they are in good condition



Locates like this



Strange quirk is the R and L brackets can only go on with the R or L letter upside down (my toe is pointing to the location of the R casting

The rubber on the peg seems to have shrunk over the years and is a bit loose so I put a o ring in to take up some of the slack as pointed to by the pick.

Coming together nicely.

whitehillbilly

Thank you appreciate the feed back