Trials Australia Forums

I have made some progress in getting mine ready for Conondale. This photo was taken yesterday when I had a test ride. Luckily I had drained the fuel tank and carby before storing the bike years ago, and all I did to get the motor running yesterday was to tip in some premix and start it! It fired on the second kick, and ran on the third kick. The clutch was stuck though and required taking the clutch cover off to free it up. After riding it around my practice sections, I remember why they were regarded as the "superbike" of 1972 when they first came out.

Dear All,

Here's an Ossa picture for you.

It must be about 1978 or so and I am not fat yet.

It's an Isle of Wight Motor Cycle Club ( Becky Cook's and my old club, I will be riding the Isle of Wight Two Day when I vist family in April next year ) trial at Downend chalk pit near the Hare and Hounds pub in the middle of the Island.

I am ashamed and wish I could remember the name of the observer ably backed up by his missus in her bobble hat, he was always at every trial, a true stalwart.

I think I came second by about 1 or 2 marks.

Happy days!

Joe.

Hi everyone,

Joe I love it. Great to see photos of the bikes being ridden in their day. Does anyone have any more?

David, I have got some photos for you regarding the front wheels. I really can't sort out the correct spacing for these wheels. Can anyone help me?

Chippy I can't be sure from the photos but the photo with the square-bottom forks it looks like you have the fork legs opposite sides to normal. The backing plate should be on the RHS of the bike.
I'll check mine out when I get home for other differences

Andrew that fork bottom looks like it's had a hacksaw taken to it? Your welcome to have a look at the front of my bike if you get stuck. Don't think those washer should be there, from memory the backing plate should go straight up against the fork.

Andrew, that 1st photo is a mk 2 right fork leg that butts up to the brake drum with no washers or spacers, the mk 2 had the wasted away bit at the bottom of the leg before it grows bigger again for the axle attachment.

The 2nd photo is of different forks possibly mk 1, don't know much about them.

Don't know much about mk 2's either other then what I've learnt on here and found on other websites, but I do have a complete mk 2 sitting nearby and I have a genuine parts manual with exploded views with all part numbers.

I'm slowly sprucing up my MAR also and hope to give you blokes a run for your money as well at the Twin Shock Masters.

Andrew, I'm on Bris southside, give me a call or text if you want to check out my bikes setup or want photocopy of parts manual, only happy to help out. 0411268056.

Here are photos showing both types of MAR forks. The square bottom forks ones have a spacer where your washers are

chippy wrote:Hi everyone,
At our last ride against each other we both rode KT's on some tough sections, but very enjoyable at Thunderbird Park. Of course I was concerned at times about damaging the nice paintwork on my KT.

Hi Everyone,

Chippy, the KT Challenge was really good and I am very glad that I did not suggest it should be the best of 3 when you beat me the first time because as it works out, you have beaten me all 3 times on the s

chippy wrote:Greg, I believe you rode my other on the weekend, so how about some action shots!!!!!!!

Here is the closest thing that I have to an action shot on the , Glen snapped this just after I failed the climb at Kyogle.

Hi everyone,
I may have sorted out the front wheel for the 350 with a 35mm gap from rim to inside fork leg on the both and the tang now sitting in the groove of the backing plate. However the other wheel has a narrow internal surface area where the brake pads are. It is only about 25mm compared to about 35mm on the 350 wheel I'm using. Tricub I might take you up on the offer re sorting out the wheels, just to check that I have it all correct. I just wonder if the wheel with the smaller surface area and only using 200mm brake shoes are off another model like an explorer maybe?.

David, thanks for your help so far and the photo you posted of the early is Tricub's. Not sure what year, but the propert might be Lacey's Creek or down Canungra way...... I also noticed that the bottom shock mount is very forward on Tricub's as well.

Greg, nice sort of action shot of you on the !,, Yes our challenges are varied and that makes it interesting. Have you had any progress on the swingarm modification?

Rod, I will ring you about the . Any chance of a photo of yours? Would be good to have a sea of ' s at Conondale this year.

Chippy

David Lahey wrote:They look fantastic Chippy. Can you do some close-up photos of the brake lug problem? Did you sort out the chain tensioner/brake rod issues?

Hi Everyone,

David, working on old bikes can make you wonder WHAT were they thinking, the rear brake is one of them! Whenever making things, it is usually good to make them have more than one function. However the chain tensioner spring needs more tension than a brake pedal, when combined together makes the effort to apply the brake so great that there is little or no feel. My solution to the problem was to add another spring that helps apply the brake, here is a photo of the test jig:

Rod wrote:I'm slowly sprucing up my MAR also and hope to give you blokes a run for your money as well at the Twin Shock Masters.

Great news Rod, the more the better! Any chance of some progress photos?

Chippy, I am really enjoying riding your , we spent the weekend riding the Fantastic Coona 2 day Trial on Ginormous Granite slabs and bowling balls. Hope you don't mind? It usually takes me a bit to adjust to different bikes and the is no exception. It reminds me of other bikes of the same era in so many ways. You can hang of the side of it like a TL 250 or my Alpina without it changing course, but nimble enough to dodge the bigger boulders in a sea of bowling balls with no dramas. There is enough power to cruise up most hillclimbs and progressive enough to give smooth delivery in slippery stuff. There was evidence of fork seals leaking below the fork gaiters when I picked the bike up. The Boulder fields at Moonbi with repetitive up and down action didn't help, the oil decided above the seal was the place to be. Dodging rocks and picking lines meant that I did not notice until the right hand gaiter split and dumped the oil down the fork leg. Which brings me to some of the good ideas, because the forks are so far apart the oil ran down the leg and missed the brake backing plate (same side), this would have contaminated the shoes if it was a Japanese bike. Another good idea is the triple clamps (top and bottom) came out of the same mould.
Does anyone know the fork oil quantity and weight, looks like motor oil?