Trials Australia Forums

I'm sure there are one or two people around who like me have fitted the Sammy Miller Products footpeg kit to their TY175 and found that the RH footpeg gets in the way of the kickstart lever.

For the first few years after fitting the SM pegs I just rode with no footpeg return spring on that side. The footpeg would just stay up if I kept the bike leaning over a bit to the left while kicking it and would then fall down once the bike went vertical again - no worries.

I have just learned that new safety requirements for competition riding requires footpegs to be held down with a spring.

I'm sure there are many different ways to manage this issue on the TY175 but today I had a bit of time and tried out using a spring loaded pin on the RH footpeg to hold the peg up while kicking. The main advantage with this concept is that you only have to reach down to the footpeg once when starting the bike. After kicking it, the footpeg snaps down when bumped rearwards with your boot. All the other ways I thought of doing it required reaching down to the footpeg both before and after kicking. The photos probably do a better job than me explaining how it works - right click on photo to get a good look.

David,

I think you've got bigger safety issues than return springs... love those see-through boots you're wearing.

Regards,

I'm glad I clipped my toenails before going up the shed for those photos or I would have had all the podiatrists on my case too

Nice mod David, yeah I got a laugh with the barefoot shot, didnt see how tough you really are with a shot standing on the pegs however!

Questions with the SM pegs: Are they noticeably different with the rearward and set lower to ride with? Would you recommend them and a worthwhile mod?
Also what mod is required for the brake rod, shortened or is there enough thread for the adjuster?

I missed my chance for now getting onto a set myself, should have done it when the Aussie dollar was rallying higher a few months back. Bugger.

The SM pegs kit puts the pegs only slightly lower and further back - probably 10mm down and 10mm back. I didn't notice the difference in location when riding. The main benefit is in comfort level as they have a full size footpad. There is also a slight handling benefit in that they stick out further so you have a stronger effect on the bike when transferring your weight from one foot to the other.
The brake rod doesn't need to be modified as the brake pedal tip only has to be lowered a bit - about 10mm to be level with the top of the new pegs. I added about 5mm to the up stop on the brake pedal to achieve this.
Whether they are right for you depends on how much value you put on how easy the bike is to ride. The SM pegs are quite expensive compared to the value of a twinshock bike and there are cheaper full-size peg kits available if you are able to make your own mounting brackets.
Don Newell in Brisbane might still have some SM footpeg kits on the shelf from before the Aussie dollar dived relative to the UK pound.
Last I heard was about 2 years ago when a friend bought a set and they were about $AU130.
David

Until i get around to adopting David's idea, a couple of alternatives to keep my bike 'legal' and me out of the protest room:
- removable 'wedge' - store in the riding boot when not required,
- elastic band attached to the frame - section of old inner tube should do.
see photos:

I think the bike scrutineers at Conondale will have a field day this year checking out the footpeg spring details on the Twinshocks.
The OSSA I want to ride at Conondale came new with folding but "gravity return" footpegs so I'm having a go at making return springs from piano wire bought from the hobby shop.
So far I've done one footpeg and am trying to get my head around how to wind the other side spring the right way first go.
The first spring I made was intended for the left side and after about an hour of trying to get to fit right, I found it worked better on the right side footpeg so thats where it is.
Tomorrow is left footpeg spring day.
I'll post photos (with boots on) if the footpegs look photogenic or even weird enough.

These are before and after springs photos of the OSSA footpegs.

I have got round to adopting Davids mod, as I was sick and tired of looking for my right hand footpeg. I found that once I worked out how to hold the upper brace while welding it onto the footpeg mounting the rest came easy. The return spring was a bit of a worry as I do not have a selection of compression springs, but I took the spring that protects the clutch cable as it passes by the barrel, wound it up a bit tighter, and then cut the lenght I needed, and it is working well, and I will be going out this Sunday to try it out
Thanks David for your valuable contributions to our sport.
Cedric

I may have to design something for my TY250a, same thing the pegs dont have a spring and its needed for the scrutineers. Ihave Paul from the Hell Team sorting me some springs now.