TY250C resto questions

[horde]

Hi All,
Ive been scanning this forum / site for years now, but I dont think I've ever posted. My name is Lachlan, and I'm trying to get back into trials after a 15 year absence! A short while back, I managed to secure a 2 owner TY250C, which allegedly has only ever seen farm duties. The overall condition wasnt too bad, and price wasnt overly inflated, so I snapped it up. Having not restored a TY before, I thought I'd better ask the local experts for some assistance.

Anyhow, a few questions to kick it off:

1) Which parts are magnesium? Anything else aside from front and rear brake plates and engine covers?

2) Any suggestions for who is good to re-spoke the rims in Melbourne ?

3) Would a 2.15 rear rim (instead of 1.85) fit without any clearance issues on the rear? (or what mods are needed to make it comfortably fit)

4) Does anyone sell a 1 piece accelerator cable to suit original throttle assembly to std mikuni?

5) Does anyone know if aftermarket footpegs can be bought for this bike that attach to the factory points?

I'm sure there will be a lot more questions to come, but these are the ones currently on my mind

Cheers!

[horde]

Better throw up a pic of the bike as it sits as of a few weeks back...

[David Lahey]

Anyhow, a few questions to kick it off:

1) Which parts are magnesium? Anything else aside from front and rear brake plates and engine covers?

2) Any suggestions for who is good to re-spoke the rims in Melbourne ?

3) Would a 2.15 rear rim (instead of 1.85) fit without any clearance issues on the rear? (or what mods are needed to make it comfortably fit)

4) Does anyone sell a 1 piece accelerator cable to suit original throttle assembly to std mikuni?

5) Does anyone know if aftermarket footpegs can be bought for this bike that attach to the factory points?

I'm sure there will be a lot more questions to come, but these are the ones currently on my mind

Cheers!

1) None that I have noticed other than those parts
2) No idea
3) Probably fine but I will check a 2.15 rim for width tonight.
4) Yes. John Cane in the UK does them. I just bought one myself. Google his name and maybe TY and you will find his website.
5) Yes. Greg Harding on these forums has made some for people in the last few years. Another alternative is to check out your local chinese dirt bike shop and have a look through their footpeg range for something that fits. I have seen them on KTs and TLRs with a minimum of modification required - not saying they are well made or strong, but it depends on what you are wanting them for. There are aftermarket footpeg kits for that bike that allow the retention of the original mounts, but the footpeg location is non-standard.

[David Lahey]

I just measured a 2.15 rim at 77 mm wide. Competition Trials rear tyre is 105mm wide. Can't see that a 2.15 rim would cause a clearance problem on a TY250C

[Jon V8]

Venhill cables here in the UK do specific cables for your TY - which looks like a nice machine. They show two Aussie dealers on their site; http://www.venhill.co.uk/Distributors/Rest_of_World I use their cables on my TY's and also their cable kits on my Ariel and other bikes.The universal kits are very good,they come with loads of fittings which are useful to repair other cables too.
One of my TY 250's has aftermarket footrests which were on it when I bought it.I think they were Smmy Miller ones,they are a bit weak in the brackets and I've put stiffening webs in them.I wouldnt bother buying them if I needed more,one of my other 250's has home made brackets which are simple and strong with aftermarket rests on them so I'd just copy them.

[horde]

thanks for the reply's gents!
I have already purchased a Venhill clutch cable - very nicely constructed, so I will chase up from either Venhill or John Cain.

Magnesium question: Has anyone gone to the extent of having the magnesium parts etched in cromic acid before paint? I did some research which indicated this would be manditory due to the high corroding nature of Magnesium... Anyone had any issues with just sanding back, priming, and 2k top coat?

Footpeg question 2: David you mentioned someone sells a footpeg kit that doesnt remove the footpeg bracket, but alters its position. Any idea's who sells this?
David, was the Greg Harding footpeg kit the laser cut weld on footpeg extensions?

Again gents thanks for your help, more questions to follow as I delve deeper into the resto

Cheers
Lachlan

[David Lahey]

Not sure how Greg made the new bits but yes they were made by extending the original footpegs and there were photos on the forum a while back. I've done similar on some of my TY footpegs but used traditional methods (drill, hacksaw and oxy-welding)
The footpeg kit I was on about is the Sammy Miller Products kit. I think they are made stronger now than they were originally. From memory they bolt on at the swingarm pivot and at the threaded end of the frame cross piece under the rear of the motor. The mounting bracket passes outboard of original footpeg mounts. Should be photos on the SMP website. If not I can post photos of friend's bikes with them fitted.
Re the painting of the covers. Yes etching the magnesium probably does make the paint stick better but I don't usually bother because where the paint gets worn off (where my boots rub) is not where they might be subject to corrosion. On the areas that might stay wet for a while after a ride (between the bashplate and the casings) I find that standard primer and paint stays put quite well.

[horde]

Hey gents,
So I've given tytrials.co.uk a shot with some parts. I was pleasantly suprised that they refunded the VAT tax almost instantly to my PAYPAL account which was good. Parts were reasonable price, and delivery time was 14 days door to door from UK to Australia - happy days! Thanks again to David for putting me onto them.

questions:
1) Does anyone know where I can purchase a ty250C exhaust hanger ( steel/rubber assembly that attached from rear of frame and connects to rear muffler)

2) Where can I get 428 sprockets (front and rear) from, and what would be best gearing for trials use? Everyone seems to sell the the larger chain/sprocket sets but are they really needed? My bike is still on original chain and sprockets..

3) If I remove the oil pump bottle and hoses, will there be anything special I need to do at the carburettor? or just leave a short piece of the oil hose in place at the carby and put a plug in it?

Cheers again !

[David Lahey]

Hey gents,
So I've given tytrials.co.uk a shot with some parts. I was pleasantly suprised that they refunded the VAT tax almost instantly to my PAYPAL account which was good. Parts were reasonable price, and delivery time was 14 days door to door from UK to Australia - happy days! Thanks again to David for putting me onto them.

questions:
1) Does anyone know where I can purchase a ty250C exhaust hanger ( steel/rubber assembly that attached from rear of frame and connects to rear muffler)

2) Where can I get 428 sprockets (front and rear) from, and what would be best gearing for trials use? Everyone seems to sell the the larger chain/sprocket sets but are they really needed? My bike is still on original chain and sprockets..

3) If I remove the oil pump bottle and hoses, will there be anything special I need to do at the carburettor? or just leave a short piece of the oil hose in place at the carby and put a plug in it?

Cheers again !

1) No but why would you want one they are so easily broken
2) Fronts in 428 are an off-the-shelf item at bike shops (JT brand). Flat rears in 428 avaliable as aftermarket TY175 part (many brands) and use a spacer to get the offset for the TY250. Gearing is personal taste. I use 13/53. 12/53 is also popular. Nothing wrong with using 520 chain either. The bigger chain lasts longer in muddy riding.
3) Yes just block the nipple with something. Unless you want to wreck the pump you should take it off too. To do that a small cover plate is needed to seal the hole where the oil pump body goes through the clutch cover, and the clutch cover needs to be off the motor to get the pump off it.

[horde]

David, with regard to the rubber/steel exhaust muffler holder, does the muffler need a rubber buffer or would I be ok to make a solid alloy bracket ? Any drama's you can think of by having the muffler solid mounted? Im thinking of possible vibration that may cause cracks to the welds on the muffler mounts at frame and muffler? If anyone has run it solid without drama let me know, and I'll run to the shed and construct something