Trials Australia Forums

Help required please:
the story so far.....

Have got new fork seals & dust seals to install on the ty175.

Removed wheel & managed to Crack the 6mm bolts in the bottom of the fork legs.
Loosened each bolt before removing fork legs from the triple clamps.

The damper rod now spins on the bolt!!!

Cut down an old 6mm allen key to make a 6mm bit. With the fork leg(s) compressed the damper still spun inside.

Removed fork cap, oil and internals: used a length of 1/2" stainless tube to hold the damper - still no good!!!

Has only one got photos or dimensions of a disassembled fork internal (damper rod) to allow me to make up a better tool to hold the damper to undo the bolt????

I have a disassembled ty250a fork (34mm) with damper rods etc. are the ty250a internals similar/same as the ty175 fork (30mm)???

Not real keen on jamming/hammering something in to the top of the rod to prevent it turning whilst I undo the bolt!!!

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jamie.

I found putting a broom handle up the forktube and then pushing against it whilst ideally using a air impact wrench or your drill in reverse and shocking it undone has worked for me

TY175 damper rod ends are round with two parallel flats. I remember using a length of SS tubing with the end squeezed a bit to make two flats, for this job many years ago. The rattle gun idea works much better but I didn't have one back then. My photo shows the internals of a fork leg from a TY175 (upper assembly) and a DT175E (lower assembly) If you look closely you will see the flats on the spring locating spigot on the TY175 damper rod.
You should also be able to see the end of your own damper rod looking down the tube with the spring removed and the forks compressed, to verify that yours also has flats.

Jamie, I've just realised who you are. You can borrow my rattle gun if you want or do the job at my place if you want

Thanks Dave, I'm going over to WA for work for a bit. I'll get in touch when I get back.

When I had a TY I used this and it worked well
a 1/2 inch socket extension bar with two opposite flats ground /filed down on the female side you can then use another long extension to get the height you need and use a spanner on the male end

Probably a stupid question but...in the picture of the disassembled forks. The springs have one end tighter wound than the other, does it make any difference which end goes up or down in the fork tube? I was told at one time the tighter wound end goes down.

hot101rod wrote:Probably a stupid question but...in the picture of the disassembled forks. The springs have one end tighter wound than the other, does it make any difference which end goes up or down in the fork tube? I was told at one time the tighter wound end goes down.

They will work both ways but one way is better than the other.
If you fit the tighter wound section at the top, the unsprung mass of the front suspension is slightly less than it would be with the tighter wound section at the bottom.