fitting tubeless Michelin rears to tube type rims
Posted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:47 pm
A few things have come together lately that prompted me to do some testing for how well a new Michelin tubeless X11 would fit to a few different 1970s rim types.
The first thing that happened was that the IRC rear tube type tyre that I had on a TY250D rim suffered a strange failure with the tyre cords in one location pulling out of the carcass, which rubbed through the tube and gave me a flat. When I took the tyre off I noticed that there was a crack at the rim weld. The third thing is that for the past 6 - 12 months I have not been able to source any more new IRC tube type rears.
That combination of events had me decide to do a series of test fits of a new Michelin X11, which of course are easy to source, but have been known to cause problems on some tube-type rims when the bead pulls in off the bead seat at trials pressures.
Advice from people who have successfully used those tyres on tube type rims was heeded. Greg Harding recommends using the rear rims that came on the Yamaha TY250A, and Tricub has previously explained that reshaping the bead seat on one of his bikes did the trick.
So four burst inner tubes and a few hours of upper body exercise later, I have found that Greg and Tricub are both right! Of course an easy thing for me to do with the wheel with the cracked rim, is to fit a TY250A rim, but I only had one of them available and there are a few other bikes that will eventually need to use Michelin tyres unless IRC starts selling them again. I used the cracked TY250D rim to experiment with for the bead seat reshaping, and after a few tries, the tyre stayed on the bead seat at trials pressures when tested on my practice sections this afternoon. I already tried the tyre on the TY250A rim last weekend and it stayed on the bead seat in the workshop even when I let the pressure right down, but I didn't ride with it.
To achieve success with the TY250D rim, the methods I used were to reshape the tyre bead with a stanley knife to reduce the taper on the seating face. This is to reduce the wedge effect that can push the bead off the seat.
The next thing was to mount the wheel in the bike (without the tyre) and use a hand-held 4" angle grinder to remove some of the bead seat nearest the flange. I estimate I removed between 0.5mm and 1.0mm from there to the width of the disc (5mm). This recess provides a key for the bead to grip on. Be aware that by doing this to a rim, it will be slightly weaker than a standard rim, and may not be legal to use on the road.
The standard bead seat on the TY250D rim is about 8mm wide and has a rounded corner.
The bead seat on the TY250A rim is 11mm wide and has a sharp corner. I think the wider bead seat on the TY250A rim may be why the tyre stays in place on this rim, but the TY250A rim is also about 12mm wider than the TY250D rim, and this may also play a part in why it works.
The bead seat on a standard shoulderless trials Akront rear rim that I tried is virtually identical to the TY250D rim (also 8mm wide and also with a rounded corner), and behaved the same as the standard TY250D rim, with the bead slipping off the bead seat at anything below 20psi.
I looked at a late model Pursang rim (shoulderless Akront the same width as the TY250A rim) and it also has wide bead seats, but at 10mm are slightly less wide than the TY250A rim. I have not test fitted the Michelin to that rim.
Here are a couple of photos in no particular order relating to this story. I will write in the text space for the photos to say what they are showing
The first thing that happened was that the IRC rear tube type tyre that I had on a TY250D rim suffered a strange failure with the tyre cords in one location pulling out of the carcass, which rubbed through the tube and gave me a flat. When I took the tyre off I noticed that there was a crack at the rim weld. The third thing is that for the past 6 - 12 months I have not been able to source any more new IRC tube type rears.
That combination of events had me decide to do a series of test fits of a new Michelin X11, which of course are easy to source, but have been known to cause problems on some tube-type rims when the bead pulls in off the bead seat at trials pressures.
Advice from people who have successfully used those tyres on tube type rims was heeded. Greg Harding recommends using the rear rims that came on the Yamaha TY250A, and Tricub has previously explained that reshaping the bead seat on one of his bikes did the trick.
So four burst inner tubes and a few hours of upper body exercise later, I have found that Greg and Tricub are both right! Of course an easy thing for me to do with the wheel with the cracked rim, is to fit a TY250A rim, but I only had one of them available and there are a few other bikes that will eventually need to use Michelin tyres unless IRC starts selling them again. I used the cracked TY250D rim to experiment with for the bead seat reshaping, and after a few tries, the tyre stayed on the bead seat at trials pressures when tested on my practice sections this afternoon. I already tried the tyre on the TY250A rim last weekend and it stayed on the bead seat in the workshop even when I let the pressure right down, but I didn't ride with it.
To achieve success with the TY250D rim, the methods I used were to reshape the tyre bead with a stanley knife to reduce the taper on the seating face. This is to reduce the wedge effect that can push the bead off the seat.
The next thing was to mount the wheel in the bike (without the tyre) and use a hand-held 4" angle grinder to remove some of the bead seat nearest the flange. I estimate I removed between 0.5mm and 1.0mm from there to the width of the disc (5mm). This recess provides a key for the bead to grip on. Be aware that by doing this to a rim, it will be slightly weaker than a standard rim, and may not be legal to use on the road.
The standard bead seat on the TY250D rim is about 8mm wide and has a rounded corner.
The bead seat on the TY250A rim is 11mm wide and has a sharp corner. I think the wider bead seat on the TY250A rim may be why the tyre stays in place on this rim, but the TY250A rim is also about 12mm wider than the TY250D rim, and this may also play a part in why it works.
The bead seat on a standard shoulderless trials Akront rear rim that I tried is virtually identical to the TY250D rim (also 8mm wide and also with a rounded corner), and behaved the same as the standard TY250D rim, with the bead slipping off the bead seat at anything below 20psi.
I looked at a late model Pursang rim (shoulderless Akront the same width as the TY250A rim) and it also has wide bead seats, but at 10mm are slightly less wide than the TY250A rim. I have not test fitted the Michelin to that rim.
Here are a couple of photos in no particular order relating to this story. I will write in the text space for the photos to say what they are showing