Engine case restoration

[Dunny]

Hi guys,

I am starting to tidy up my TY250D and would like to get some advice on treatment or painting engine cases and covers to keep them close to the original finish.

[David Lahey]

Depending on how fussy you are on the evenness of the finish of the inner cases, wet blasting gives a very even finish that look like the original finish. Solvent and plastic bristle brush/ plastic pot scourer works too but is not as even. If you dry bead blast they will not look original because it roughs up the surface. The inner cases on new TY250 twinshocks were not clear lacquered.
For the magnesium outer covers, any paint that keeps the air and water away from the metal surface is fine for corrosion prevention, but they do cop a beating from riders muddy boots so the top coat needs to be pretty tough. I usually key the surface with 280 wet and dry paper, use an etch primer then epoxy enamel. Bead blast surface prep would be less work than using wet and dry. Two pack is even tougher than epoxy enamel. A colour that looks original is "silver grey metallic". If you put clear over it, it will look a bit discoloured. Some people also paint the inside of the magneto cover.

[Dunny]

Thanks for the help David. I will give it a go.

[Jools]

Dunny you've probably done this by now, but for anyone who's about to do this, here's the go with engine casings silver.
Use a 2K automotive paint mixed with between 50 to 30% matte additive (depending on the level of gloss you want). Most original engine casings had a satin finish, high gloss looks nasty - the matte additive gives you the authentic looking satin finish. No clearcoat over the top needed. You need an SS (single stage) paint, such as Protec Silver SS (single stage), you don't need primer or undercoat.
But you need to thoroughly degrease then rough up the casings with wet 'n dry and/or steel wool.
2K is chemical resistant and hard. Don't worry about the panic merchants who will tell you 2K is toxic. Yes it is, but if you wear a mask and spray in the open air it'll be fine. (It's not as if you were doing a complete car).

[Dunny]

Correct Jools, mission complete. I use a rattle can from Supercheap, Dupli-Color Engine Enamel - Aluminium colour, 2 coats. Sanded back and scrubbed with Metho and used Dupli-Color Enamel Primer first. The Aluminium colour doesn't sound good but the finish isn't too bad and not a bad colour match. No clear used as it has a satin finish. It may not be perfect for the purist restorer but photo attached and you can make your own judgements.

Dulpi-Color Engine Enamel

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