TY250C resto questions

[Bully fanatic]

Hello all. I was enquiring about a clear coating at my local paint supplier and they told my that they are making a two pack clear primer for aluminium, alloys and stainless steel. This was at Protec paints in Brisbane but if they make it then all the other industrial and automotive paint suppliers should have a similar product. Go and ask. You will need a spray gun and compressor to apply it but it is available. I only grabbed one product information sheet for a mate so I haven`t got any information on the product. Graham.

[horde]

Thanks for the imput gents, I spent an hour last night cleaning the dirt and pit marks out of the fins, and the more I look, the more I'd prefer them polished, but the drama will be in the fact that there is no way to re-apply polish internally of the spokes later down the track. I'm thinking of perhaps painting in the same silver as the frame. I have enough 2k clear and base silver paint to do this. Having said that, I spoke with a work colleague and he said I could just lay a coat of clear over them and they'd be fine. I'll run out to the paint supplier and ask about this "2k clear primer" tomorrow - sounds like the solution!
OEM spokes and wheel bearings arrived to the office last night, so I'll have to make a decision soon. - I'll keep you posted, cheers for the help!

[Tee-Why]

All good tips, however this has been an old trick applied by the manufacturer from when the bike was new, and still do now!
Quite often the forks legs are coated, as some engine parts.
But the clear coat needs to be either heat proof or UV stabilised, as it may tend to go "yellow tinged" over time.
Just see how it stands up after a few muddy rides and stays clean.
Vapour blasting is the trick before coating, looks more original than polishing.

[FM350]

Have a close look at any alloy wheel which has a natural rather than painted of powder coated finish. Most that are more than a couple of years old will be suffering from some degree of corrosion damage, as even the "diamond cut" (rough not polished) surface finish isnt enough to allow clear coats currently available to stick properly, and this leads directly to problems with corrosion.

Only way round this is to either paint, or polish the alloy parts and maintain the shine using metal polish of some sort. Easy enough to polish fork legs and yokes, but not a good idea to try the same with hubs!

[horde]

Hey gents,
Thanks for the imput, I'm still a little undecided on what to do, however, last week I bought a product that I think would be good for polished alloy. Here is the link to it. POR-15 Glisten PC
http://www.ppcco.com.au/topcoat_glistenpc.htm
This stuff seems to be the best thing I can find to coat polished alloy. Still have a little doubt whether it will be okay for the hubs though.... Chime in if you've used this product before!

Anyway, I was a busy lad on Sunday, finished the frame off. Looks amazing in the flesh. 2 pack De Beers clear coat over Mercedes metallic silver.Attached a pic to show it off

[Mark K]

............ Anyway, I was a busy lad on Sunday, finished the frame off. Looks amazing in the flesh..............

I'm amazed, and just a little bit jealous.
Not because it is so clean, and straight, and pretty, and so silver, and so very very shiny, but because of its location.
I'd be shot if I had it indoors, and shot, poisoned, and cut into pieces if I had it on the ironing board.

[cota]

Yea - but I am sure 'horde' just used the excuse that he just needed to iron out the creases, make sure the pleats were set and that the folds were in the correct place and the collars were were well pressed. Or it cost a month of Sundays slaving over the ironing!

[horde]

Hi again gents

Classic remarks Cota and Mark K The photo was taken while "the boss" was out !

Anyhow, a question that I need help with - TUBELESS REAR RIM!

I just ordered a set of Michelin X-11 trials tyres from the bike shop. I had asked for a tubed rear but a tubeless has arrived, and Michelin Australia have told the shop that they dont manufacture or stock the tube type anymore. Michelin Australia inform that the tubeless will be fine with a tube in it.
I have then asked the shop to phone the IRC importer and get me a tube type IRC. Apparently the importer is out of stock of rear tube types.

I have read on this forum as well as others that the DID rims on the Yamaha TY's will not support a Michelin tubeless with a common result being that it will fold off on regular occasions.

I have now emailed Sammy Miller to see if they stock a tubeless rim to suit a TY - they do not

QUESTION: I have read that a tubeless rim from either a Fantic or a Gas Gas will work on a TY hub. I'm assuming that Fantic rims are non existant, so will a Gas Gas rim work with a TY hub? Are the spoke hole angles similar? Is there a specific rim from a specific model that will work?
Any light on this will be appreciated! I've researched this, but hit a dead end!

[Greg Harding]

Hi Everyone,

Horde, Somehow the story is getting confused as I bought a Michelin competition tube type for the comunal M49 just before Conondale last year. It seemed at the time that the standard answer is: We don't do them anymore, when I pushed and asked again, they produced one, pretty confident that it wasn't old stock because it looked brand new! My suggestion is: ask again specifically and if the answer is still no, you are talking to the wrong person!

As to the rim change, earlier GasGas's had 36 spokes and later had 32, your TY has 36, another option is to use a TY250A rear rim or wheel as the rim is wider and will hold a tubeLESS type Michelin all day with just 3 pounds in it!

[David Lahey]

If you really want a tube type IRC I'm sure they will be importing more soon. I got one around Christmas time after a bit of a wait on backorder. I suspect they are still catching up on orders following the effects of the Tsunami last year.
Getting a rear tubeless rim for your bike is pretty easy - the hard bit is finding spokes to suit. The type with the sealing band is much deeper than the well in a tube type rim so standard spokes are too long. The better tubeless rims that have a central flange also need custom spokes. A couple of my riding friends have had tubeless rear rims fitted to their twinshocks. They just gave the job to a wheel builder (who can make custom spokes)